'Military Report on South-West Persia, Including the Provinces of Khuzistan (Arabistan), Luristan, and Part of Fars' [‎17] (44/466)

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cliannels or rather drains. The Europeans of the Telegraph Department do
not^ in this sacred city, lead a joyous existence, and no lady dares to show
herself in its streets uncovered by the white sheet worn by Persian woman.,
lest the populace should insult her.
Being instructed not to visit Tehran (to do so was quite unnecessary, the
road being well known), halting at Kum on the 2nd May to change carriage,
T r, * „ * - * 011 May the party set out for Gulpai^an by the
um o u paigan. direct road and reached it by the following stages :—
May 3rd, Daghan
May 4th, Daulatabad
May 5th, Muhallat
May 6th, Nazia
May 7th, Gulpaigan
Miles.
Elevation.
Feet.
• M
••t lo
3,860
««4
24
4,570
24
5,920 Serai.
*•«
28
5,775
21
5,875 Serai.
... 112
(Wrot
A mixed pack-animal carriage of mules and ponies was entertained as far as
Isfahan at the rate of li krans per day per animal.
The mule road is good and level for some 50 miles from Kum, following
generally the valley of the Ab-i-Khonsar. The road then leaves the valley
and passes over the hill known as the Godar-i-nar, at an elevation of 7,890',
before descending into Mahallat, a large and flourishing village, well
watered and surrounded by cultivation and fine timber trees. Thence to
Galpaigan the mule road taken (there are alternative ones, see part IV) is
generally level and good to the foot of the Hulwand, passing between un
dulations and hills separated by flat and often broad valleys. The hills and
undulations are steep and barren; the valleys are often uncultivated. Wells
are almost unknown; water is obtained from streams. After crossing the
Hulwand at an elevation of 8,200,' the road descends into Gulpaigan.
Gulpaigan occupies an important position on the road between Isfahan and
Gulpaigan. Burujird, Hamadan, &c., yet its bazar is small and its
trade insignificant; it lies in a wide and fertile valley and
is well supplied with fruit gardens.
This road is said never to be closed by snow, although it falls for three
months and lies at times 2 feet deep (see details, Part IV),
III.
Gulpaigdn, Ali-Pudar, Zarda~Kuh and Isfahan, shirting the BaJchtiari hills.
In order to ascertain what roads passed through the Bakhtian hills be-
Gulpaigan to Ali- een SMst * r and ^nd the line Isfahan, Buru-
Giidar. an( l their nature, halting at Gulpaigan on the 8th
M a y to obtain all possible information coneernino- them
(the map is no guide and is a blank), I passed on the 9th May to Khonsar
{elevation 7,720 feet), distant 18 miles. Khonsar represents a series of villages
known by various names, occupying the bed of a narrow and most fertile valley^
Khonsar. u^der the snow-clad Khonsar range. Fruit here
, grows in great abundance; timber is fairly plentiful, and
carpenters shops are numerous; pear-wood ladles, so largely used in drinkino-
.. sherbets, are here manufactured. Springs of icy cold and pellucid water
i burst out of the bill side (*ee detaiU, Purl IV].
3