'A Journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Constantinople, in the years 1808 and 1809, in which is included some account of the proceedings of his Majesty's Mission, under Sir Harford Jones, Bart., to the Court of the King of Persia. With twenty-five engravings from the designs of the author; a plate of inscriptions; and three maps.' [‎243] (316/524)

TEHERAN.
the towers of the Ark. Their watch-word is " hazir, or ready/' which
they continually pass from one to the other. They are a distinct body
from the Kechekchees of the city, who are solely attached to the police
office, and do the duty of our watchmen, with this difference, that they
have a right to ascend the tops of the houses in their midnight
rounds.
Besides this body-guard of twelve thousand, the King has three
thousand Gottlams or slaves, who are horsemen and always attend him
when he makes an excursion. All these people, both horse and foot,
are paid, fed, clothed, armed and mounted at the King's expence.
Goulam (slave) is here figuratively used to express their devotion to the
King's service; for they are not in reality entered into a state of servi
tude by actual purchase: on the contrary, they are particularly honoured
by the King, and his own favourite Ismael Beo is their commander.
This chief is one of those who still exercise the noose with great skill; it
is called kummund, and there are some instances of its being still used
in their engagements.
DRESS.
The dress of the Persians is much changed since the time of
Ciiaiidin . It never possessed the dignity and solidity of the Turkish
dress, and much less now than ever. So materially indeed have their
fashions altered, that in comparing with the modes of the present day,
the pictures and descriptions in Chardin and Le Bruf , we can
recognize no longer the same people. It is extraordinary that an
Asiatic nation, so much charmed by show and brilliancy, (as the
Persians have always been supposed to be), should have adopted for
their apparel the dark and sombre colours, which are now universal
among all ranks. In the reign of the Zund Family indeed, light colours
were much in vogue; but the present Race, perhaps from a spirit of
opposition, cherish dark ones. A Persian therefore looks a most melan
choly personage, and resembles much some of the Armenian Priests
and Holy Men, whom I have seen in Turkey. Browns, dark olives,
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