'Routes in Arabia' [‎485] (518/852)

485
Route No. 128 (h)—contd.
From this point there is a descent of about 1,000 feet in
a series of curves and zigzags (fairly easy gradients and good
surface on to the Sana "a plain at m. 30).
At m. 31 is a ruined summer villa, gardens and tank (fresh
water supply) to the left of the road, often used as a rendezvous
for caravans entering and leaving Sana'a.
From here the road runs east straight across the plain and
enters Sanaa at m. 33 through the Bab-al-Ka'a, sometimes
called the Bab-al-Yahud (Gate of the Jews).
Sana a is a town of some 20,000 inhabitants, of whom about
8,000 are Jews. There is a small Levantine community of
Christian Ottoman subjects and one Italian-born subject, a
merchant of long-standing, who has just left for Europe (Nov
ember 1913) and may not be returning.
The Arab population is of the Zaidi sect.
Sana'a is situated afc an altitude of 7,200 feet on a broad open
plain lying north and south and bouilded by hills east and west.
The ground is perfectly level and there is not sufficient surface
drainage to justify the term " valley " but there must be much
subterranean water percolating southwards beneath this place
to judge by the numerous and widely scattered wells. The city's
greatest length is 2 miles from east to west. Its breadth from
north to south does not exceed a mile (I know that my estimate
of the population and extent of this city is considerably less than
is usually supposed). There are three distinct quarters com
mencing from the west. First the Ka'a or Jewish quarter, with
fairly wide main streets and houses of moderate height (average
two storeys); next, Bir-al-Azab, the official quarter largely com
posed of Turkish private houses in their own walled
gardens. Here are the Government schools, the Wali's residence,
the Staff Office and the quarters of most officers of rank. This
quarter narrows to a mere neck towards the town of Sana 'a, which
former Arab rule has enclosed within a 4:0-feet mud and stone
wall flanked by frequent towers. (The Turks have thrown
an inadequate mud wall round the other two quarters.)
At this point a fine gateway of well-dressed masonry gives
entrance to the town and there is also a gate on each side of the
" neck " facing north and south. All three are known as Bab-
al-Saba. The centre gate is surmounted and flanked by sub
stantial quarters for Ottoman infantry, of whom there is a body
here on permanent guard, as well as city police. From here