'Through Persia on a side-saddle' [‎17] (46/360)

TEHRAN
17
women, made our way up a staircase into a fine room
covered with paintings by Persian artists. This was
thronged with yet more women, who looked at us curiously
as we were shown into an inner room with a long range
of windows giving views of the pretty garden below and
the grand Elburz Range beyond, white with snow.
Here were assembled the Shah's many wives, who received
us very graciously; and most of the female aristocracy,
European and Persian, of Tehran were present.
All the Persian ladies wore loose-sleeved jackets of the
richest brocades and velvets, and had short, much-stififened-
out trousers, which did not reach to the knees, the costume
being completed with coarse white stockings or socks.
Before the Shah went to Europe the Persian ladies all kept
to the old national costume of long, loose, embroidered
trousers, but on the return of the monarch, this present
ungraceful costume became the fashion in the royal anderoon,
and has spread throughout the whole country; it being, I
believe, a fact that the dress of the Parisian ballet-girls so
greatly fascinated the Oriental potentate that he commanded
it to be adopted by his wives.
Over this, which is the usual indoor dress, was a long
shapeless piece of brocade, covering the back and all the
lower part of the body, and sticking out in a comical man
ner from the waist, for all the world as if its owner were
wearing a crinoline. A square of stiff white muslin was
bound round the head and hung down behind, concealing
the hair, which was worn loose or in plaits.
The portly mother of the ' Naib' was clad in pale green
brocade and velvet; and her stout son, in a dark blue
uniform and kolah (high black lamb's-wool hat) sat beside
her on a gilt chair.
B