'Through Persia on a side-saddle' [‎25] (54/360)

TEHRAN
25
in turbans and flowing robes, who came frequently to the
Legation, carrying big bundles, from which they produced
all manner of treasures, coins, silks, brass-work, embroideries,
handsome old velvets, brocades and what not. They
would leave their goods for days in our possession, coming
at intervals to haggle about the price if we wished to
purchase some particular article, and asking double or
treble its value at first, as a matter of course.
During my walks and rides about Tehran I often wished
that the Persians had kept to the brilliant clothes worn by
their ancestors. The European trousers, always out of
shape from their owner's habit of squatting on his heels,
the drab frock-coat, much pleated at the waist, and the
black lamb's-wool kolah affected by the townsmen—making
prince and servant look precisely alike to the uninitiated
eye—give but little idea of what one has always been led
to expect in the East.
I was assured by Persians that this dress was a copy of
the old French Court costume, and they appeared hurt
when I inquired what had become of the lace cravats and
ruffles, the handsome buttons, and the lappets; while they
were quite incredulous when it was represented to them
that silk stockings and buckled shoes were necessary to
complete the toilette ! Turbans are discarded by all save
the mollahs (priests), the merchants, the hajis (those who
have made the pilgrimage to Mecca), and the seyids
(descendants of the Prophet).
The peasants wear loose blue cotton blouses and trousers,
a cloth swathed round the waist, holding bread, tobacco,
and money, and a yellow felt skull-cap on the head ; while
during the winter the soldiers are huddled into old brown
overcoats, and the shapeless black-shrouded women are a