'Through Persia on a side-saddle' [‎137] (168/360)

OUR STAY IN THE HILLS
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of any importance in this district, situated on a hot
plain too stony for riding out of a foot's pace.
Our way lay along a narrow track on the side of a
range of hills, an unpleasant road, as it overhung a
precipice for the most part, and at specially bad bits
we had to dismount and lead our horses. My grey
1 Charters,' an animal of much character, always picked
the best path, and if I tried to force him along one not
of his own choosing, he would resolutely refuse to follow
me, planting his feet firmly and looking the picture of
obstinacy until I gave in to him.
Yet, in spite of all his common-sense, he and I nearly
came to a bad end on this particular ride. My brother
was some distance ahead of me when my horse, starting
violently and snorting, declined to proceed, and at a touch
from my whip twisted round on the narrow path and
all but slipped over the abyss. His struggles and the
long ride had loosened my saddle-girths, and I had some
difficulty in getting free of the pommels, which slipped
down with my weight. Once dismounted, I dragged
my horse back to terra finna, and, looking about to see
what had alarmed him, espied a dead and malodorous
partridge lying not far from us on the track. I managed
to reach the bird with my whip and push it over the edge,
but ' Charters ' would not be pacified, and did his best to
break from me, trembling violently, and it was some time
before I could coax him past the fatal spot.
Near Rahbur we inspected the carpet-making done by
the nomad women. It was carried on in one of their
curious tents, which had a large piece of black felt stretched
over a pole to form the roof, three sides being enclosed
with a fine twig matting, while the fourth, and a space