'Through Persia on a side-saddle' [‎203] (238/360)

THRO UGH THE DESER T TO BAMP UR AND PAHRA 203
and reddish stones of volcanic origin, debris from the
gloomy hills, where the only signs of life were lizards with
flat heads, stout bodies, and tails cocked high, coloured so
precisely like the boulders among which they lived as to
be indistinguishable from them unless in motion.
The wind, which increased in violence as we rode on,
raised up a sand-storm after noon, through which we had
to make our way in spite of cut faces, smarting eyes, and
protesting horses. Fortunately there was some tamarisk
scrub where we halted for the night, and as it was im
possible to pitch tents in such a wind, we crouched down
with our books and writing materials among the bushes,
waiting for the gale to abate as evening came on.
I amused myself by watching the camels come in.
Three or four linked to one another would be led up to
the camp, and by dint of pulling the chain, shouting, and
slapping their woolly necks, the tiresome animals would be
persuaded to kneel down to be unloaded amid a terrible
amount of groaning and grumbling, just as if they were
enduring great bodily anguish. The loads were carried in
big cord bags slung on each side of the saddle, and had
plenty of rope to keep them in position—a great contrast
to the miserable equipment of the Baluchi camel, when
later on we had to depend on it, and send the Prince's fine
animals back to Kerman. The work ot unloading was by
no means an easy one, as the creatures, eager to go oft
and feed, did their best to get up before the boxes were
unfastened, and the men had often a hard task to keep some
unruly camel on its knees during the necessary few
moments. Those that were must were the most trouble
some, uttering awe-inspiring gurglings, a red bladder
coming out of their foaming mouths, and I always dreaded