‘Military report on south-west Persia, including the provinces of Khúzistán (Arabistan), Luristán and part of Fars.’ [‎185v] (375/470)

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banks of the stream are the “Bowie” tribe's summer grounds. There are
signs of cultivation and jars of unburnt clay made for the purpose of hold
ing grain. The (xopal showed marks of flood 6 feet higher than its present
ornormal level. It was 30 feet broad and 3 feet deep when we crossed it.
The road, for a track has commenced, leads through marly and gypsum hills
to a raised plain, and the head waters of one of the branches of the Gopal is
crossed. Our way is along the plain to the village of Mir Bachcha, which is
situated on a “teppe”; thence the plain slopes gently down to Ram-Hormuz.
We halt half way down at the tents of Shaikh Jabir Khan, who receives us
in durbar A public or private audience held by a high-ranking British colonial representative (e.g. Viceroy, Governor-General, or member of the British royal family). surrounded by the men of this tribe. They are a fine-looking lot,
well behaved, show much more breed than any Arabs we have yet seen. I hey
have good horses too, and their coffee is the best I have ever tasted. Samples
of the naptha from the well on the road to Shustar, shown on St. John s map,
was examined and proved to be excellent. There is not much of it they say,
and the spring has been known to fail entirely after catching fire. Ihe
water here is slightly brackish. Around Ram-IIormuz is much cultivation,
and plentiful rains bring crops to perfection {see pages 353,44).
Stage 3, December 5th .—Rainy morning, but decide to start. Tremen-
n t -tu t ous tropical thunderstorm comes on, and we are drenched
lir to RusUmaMd to the skin; have great difficulty in crossing swollen
across level country, 14 streams of the Alai, into which our old friend the Zard-
miles,east by south. ^ fl ow . s< There is no road as we are avoiding Ram-
Hormuz. Two mules washed off their feet; we waded along through flooded
paddy fields, past a village named Pilih to another named Rustamabad.
Luckily, the sun came out at 3 p.m., and we were able to get a few clothes
dried. The people here are a wonderful change from the aquiline nosed Arabs
we have left. They are a colony of Kuhgehlu Lurs who have migrated hither
from Behbahan. The Khatkhuda of Rustamabad is a jolly old fellow, in face
resembling the bust of Socrates. He is a warrior too, and killed the father
of Daurab Khan of Grownek, with whom he had a feud. The people are flat
nosed and big-headed, their broad foreheads being rendered preternaturally
high by shaving. This night there was a total eclipse of the moon, and all
the villagers turned out to fire at the demon that was supposed to be devour
ing the Queen of Heaven.
Stage 4, December 6th. —The Socratic Khatkhuda evidently thinks we
are made of money, and disdains accepting the gold
RustamBbad to camp piece offered in payment for the small amount of gram
near Jaizun, lb! miles, an q bread and a diseased sheep he supplied us with.
e v y S ° U ‘ The sheep made us all ill, though now that we have got
into a sweet water country we can eat most things. We have hit off the
track, and just outside Rustamabad we cross a stream named the Shurab,
insignificant except in flood time. Our road going slight-
* Thl ® > be tbe lv south by east, enters the broad open valley of the
ai ot t. o m s map. Xurdistdn river, bounded on the south by a low range
of hills not shown on St. John's map, and on the north by a lofty range. We
are marching up stream, and two miles parallel to and north of it, so have to
cross the deep cut courses of many mountain torrents. Luckily we did not
try these yesterday, or we should have been brought up on the bank of the
first one. Their sides could be ramped for the passage of wheeled vehicles.
Six and one quarter miles (two farsakhs) from Rustamabad is Sultanabad, a
small village with a few date palms and some bean cultivation. Prom Sul
tanabad the upper road should be taken when the river is in flood; as it