‘Seistan’ [‎4r] (7/98)

Camp Diary of Lieutenant-Colonel H. M, Temple, Agent to the Gofernor-
General of India and Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul-General for
Khorassan and Seistan, dated the 6th November to 5th December
1900.
6 th November 1900 .—"While at Sehdeh I received a visit from the Deputy
Governor. He said that there were about 1,000 souls in the place. The fort
had fallen into ruins, and the present houses had of late years been built
outside the fort. Formerly this valley and village had been much subjected to
Turkoman raids, which had ended since the Russian occupation of Trans-Caspia.
He had himself witnessed several raids. Wheat, barley, beetroot, turnips,
opium, etc., are grown here. There are three karezes. Wool is exported
partly to Birjand and partly to Sabzawar. Sugar is imported from Sabzawar.
The climate is colder than Birjand. There is a wind-mill and a strong wind
blows in the valley in summer. Snow lies deep in winter. Not many caravans
came from the south to this village, though several came as far as Birjand.
Nothing is manufactured; and neither silk nor cotton is grown.
7th November .—Sixteen miles, Sehdeh to Ghilek.
The route crosses the plain and then enters some low hills from which the
clustered domes of the village Jafirabad can be seen in the plain. Amongst the
hills the village of Kala Haji Mirza Ahmad is passed. Then the route crosses
the Gudari Naokhan after which Ghilek is reached. At this place there are
about 50 families. It is situated at a great altitude. The cultivation is on
terraces on hill sides and there are a few gardens. Supplies are obtainable at
this season of the year and the water is good. Cultivation at this and similar
villages is extending now that Turkoman raiding has ceased and life and property
are more secure. The country is poor and waterless. Doubtless more water
could be procured by means of kanats, but the expenditure of capital would be
so great as to render any profit on the outlay more than doubtf ul. Ancient kanats
which have become filled up are in places being re-excavated as this is cheaper
than making new kanats. All over this part of Khorassan the wind in summer
is very high, but it decreases in winter. Flocks of sheep and goats are always
to be met with. There are more goats than sheep. A tree on the hills is only
rarely to be met with. Shrubs about one foot high are generally to be seen
and are useful as they constitute almost the only fuel to be found. The people
of the Kain province are extremely poor.
7 th November .—Gilek to Birjand, 18 miles.
The track rises continuously until the summit of the Gudari Saman Shahi
is reached. This pass, which is about 7,000 feet high, has an easy ascent and
descent, and is not difficult at the summit. Descending the pass the follow
ing villages are passed:—Ziraj, 15 families; Pisute, 20 families; Maiabad,
10 families; Karimabad, 5 families, and Ishkambarabad, 20 families.
At some distance from the town I was met by the Deputy Karguzar and
Passport Officer, with some sowars. Nearer the town Sartip Ibrahim Khan,
with two led horses and a large following, met me, and conducted me to my
camp. I was received in a very cordial and satisfactory manner. From
the Shaukat-ul-Mulk downwards the people are disposed to regard the British
in a very friendly light. Abbas Ali, the Hospital Assistant, is permitted to see
the Shaukat-ul-Mulk at any time, while the Russian Agent is but very rarely
received.
The Agent of Seth Sulaiman has opened a shop here. To encourage him
and strengthen his position in the town I visited his shop, taking with me all
the sowars and farrashes, so that my visit to his shop might be as conspicuous
as possible. He appeared to have done a considerable trade in fancy goods, the
Shaukat-ul-Mulk being his best customer. He has also rendered himself very
useful in inducing local traders to send their goods to India via the Seistan
route. I urged him to establish a shop in Meshed and gave him advice as to