Notes Prepared for Reference during Curzon’s Tour of the Persian Gulf, and Other Papers on Persia and the Persian Gulf [‎137r] (273/678)

INTRODUCTION.
T HE notes contained in the following pages were collected during a short trip
undertaken for the Intelligence Branch of the Quarter Master General's
Department in India during the spring of 1896. Leaving Karachi on the 11th
February in the British India Steam Navigation Company’s S.S. Java I proceed
ed first to Bushahr, calling at the ports of Gwadar, Jask, Bandar Abbas, Lingah
and the island of Bahren en route. One of my principal objects was to collect
information regarding the position of the Turks and the strength of their garrisons
in the Persian Gulf The historical term used to describe the body of water between the Arabian Peninsula and Iran. , and from Bushahr I went on to Basra, which is the head
quarters of the Governor of the Province. On arrival there on the 22nd Feb
ruary I found that Captain Whyte, the Assistant Political Agent A mid-ranking political representative (equivalent to a Consul) from the diplomatic corps of the Government of India or one of its subordinate provincial governments, in charge of a Political Agency. and Consul, to
whom I had previously written, had already obtained from the Wali permission
forme to visit the district of El Hasa, together with a letter to the authorities
there, directing them to afford me assistance. This was a piece of good fortune
which I had not hoped for. No Englishman had, as far as I know, visited this
country for at least 30 years, on previous occasions when permission had been
asked for it had always been refused, and it was due mainly to Captain Whyte’s
personal influence with the Wali that I was allowed to go.
I therefore decided to return as soon as possible to Bahren and cross over
from there to the Arabian Coast, hoping that the information I could obtain
would compensate for the delay involved. The mail steamers, as a rule, only call
at Bahren once a fortnight, and I had to wait at Basra till the 5th March before
1 could get a boat back. During this enforced interval I was most hospitably
entertained by Captain Whyte, and was enabled to collect a certain amount of
information regarding the position of affairs in this part. I finally reached
Bahren again on the 8th March, and on the 9th crossed over in a native boat to
the port of Katif, with the intention of going from there into El Hasa and return
ing by way of Ajer. I landed at Katif on the morning of the 10th, but found
unfortunately that the Turkish Kaimakam was absent, his place being filled by
the Kazi, an old Arab, to whom I presented my letters. He was quite polite
and gave me a room in a house in the bazar, and told me that a caravan was
starting that evening w r hich I could accompany. I had, however, yet to experience
the methods of Turkish authorities w r hen they wish to be obstructive. After
hiring transport, for which I paid in advance, and arranging to start with the
caravan at 5 P.M., I was somewhat annoyed when in the afternoon the man
brought me back my money and said he could not take me as the road was
unsafe. This was of course only an excuse, and on enquiry 1 found out that the
Arab merchant, to whom the caravan belonged, was afraid that my presence
might get him into trouble, and was determined that 1 should not go with him:
In vain I tried to hire other transport, they all refused to take me. I was unable
to get hold of the merchant, and meanwhile the caravan left without me. Next
day I again went to the Kazi and asked him to arrange for me to go on by
myself. He then informed me that the road was very unsafe, that he had not
enough troops at his disposal to give me a sufficient escort, and that he could
not be responsible for my safety by that road, but that I had better go to Ajer
and go on from there. One of the stipulations made by the Wali of Basra was
that i must be guided in my movements by the wishes of the authorities on the
■spot, and after a vain attempt to induce the Kazi to change his mind, I had no
choice but to go to Ajer and make a fresh start from there. From Katif to Ajer
is only about 60 miles along the coast, but wind and sea were against us all the
way, and leaving Katif late on the 12th, I did not finally reach Ajer till the even
ing of the 15th, the intervening time being spent somewhat uncomfortably tossing
about in a small native boat. On arrival at Ajer my boat was at first waved off
from the landing stage by an official, and it was not till my papers had been care
fully scrutinised that I was allowed to land. A very dirty room in the “ Khan”
was then given me, while a copy of my letters from the Wali was sent off to the
authorities at Hofhuf. On the 17th a reply was received in the shape of an escort