Coll 28/128 ‘Persia. Tour of 12thIndian Division Mobile Dispensary in Tribal areas.’ [‎14r] (27/145)

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Mumbi is the headquarters of Khalili and consists of a single
rectangular fort of stone and mortar, surrounded by a few wattle huts
belonging to the Khan’s servants. The wives of the Khan received me
unveiled and allowed me to examine them when necessary, for they
regard doctors as 'Mahrara’. Thus our stay in Mumbi area was as
pleasant as it was fruitful, for Khalili proved a most devoted and
understanding host, and an intelligent conversationalist.
Taibi, Tou r. It had been my intention to push northwards
from here, across the three ranges which separate Mumbi from Dishmuk
and tour the Ala-ud-Dini and other Bahmai Tribes. That area too,
is nominally controlled by Khalili, but is in fact still steeped in
bitter feuds between the sub-tribes, some of whom do not even give lip
service to Khalili. At the time, constant raids were in progress
between the Mir Ahmedi & Ala-ud-Dini Sub-tribes, and Khalili entreated*
us not to run unnecessary risks by touring an area the tribes of which
could not avail themselves of our medical help. As I had received
strict instructions to act according to Khalili's advice, the visit
to Dishmuk was regretfully cancelled and we turned our course due East
and then South East towards Lindeh, the headquarters of the Tabi-GarmstrL
This region is marked unsurveyed on the map and is shown as a
narrow and elongated plain. It actually turned out to consist of
several chains of gach hills between which a tributary of the Kurdistan
River flows*
Starting at dawn in the company of Khalili and a large armed
escort of Bahmais, we followed the banks of this perennial stream
passing innumerable remains of Preislamic villages, dams and mills, and
through rich fields of corn and rice. Willows and poplars, oleander
and wild fruit trees grow in profusion on all sides, while scattered
small encampment of Bahmais eagerly awaited the arrival of their Khan.
Some six hours after leaving Mumbi we reached the crest of a
low hill and sighted a beautiful eliptical lake (alt. 5,200) about a
mile across its long diameter. Beyond were the hills of the Tabi
Tribe where Khalili would have to bid us farewell.
This most unexpected and delightful spot, with the bleached
gatch hills reflected on the rippleless surface of the lake, and the
Kuh-i-Seyah in the background is an ideal place to break the journey.
From the northern thickly reeded edge of the lake, ugly grunts of
wild boar reached us, while coots, geese and swans hovered everywhere.
The lake water is hard, but not unpalatable and evidently wells out of
its basin, as no streams flow into it. This may be the reason why
it harbours no fish. At its northern end are remains of a canal,
which in former days carried its overflow to a valley beyond. Its
actual depth is said to be over 17 horsemen in mid-summer. At night,
with the scattered camp fires lighting up the fierce faces of the
tribesmen, the women chanting as they husked the rice, the grim watch-
towers against the gloomy forests beyond it, presented an unreal, if
not Hollywood picture, of a feudal scene of the Middle Ages.
V/e were awakened with the morning star, and having bid farewell
to our host, continued our journey toward Linden over bleak and
sparseley wooded undulating hills, which often echoed under our horses.
We passed numerous encampments of Taibis huddled around stone forts and
watch-towers that dot the route and give some indication of the
insecurity of this area. Our Bahmai tufangchis began to lose their
carefree confidence and avoided intruding upon the Tabis unless
repeatedly invited. Already,a change in the mode of our reception was
noticeable. The Taibis were less hospitaole, more suspicious and on
occasions even uncivil towards us. At one place only a threat to
complain at Lindeh procured us some water to brew tea with, and even