'Telegraph and travel. A narrative of the formation and development of telegraphic communication between England and India, under the orders of Her Majesty's Government, with incidental notices of the countries traversed by the lines.' [‎430] (469/782)

430
TELEGRAPH AND TRAVEL.
[chap.
may confidently affirm that if the same amount of
labour has been bestowed on the officering, the regular
paying, and moral disciplining of the soldier as on his
clothing and setting up, the Sultan's army need not
fear comparison with the better forces of Europe.
This change, visible to me in the garrisons below
Baghdad, naturally became more apparent at Con
stantinople ; and. in subsequent visits to the latter city
it has become more remarkable still.
"June 15.—March to Middiat, 9 hours, or 21 miles:
over very difficult country. There are stony hills covered
with jungle, or dwarf scattered forests—and intersected with
deep dales and gullies. Walked much on foot in order to examine
more closely the telegraph line ; and glad to rest and await my
companions at Chaosh Ali's leaf house, and drink a cup of his
shanina. Joined by K. there, and breakfasted on bread and
eggs and more shanina. Hence we rode over to the monastery,
called by the Kurds Da'ir el Umr, and by Christians Mar Jibrail,
near the village of Kifr Bey. Alighted, and went into the old
church, said to have been built 1,500 years ago, in the days of
Constantino. It is a vaulted building, about 50 feet long by
20 broad, opening out in the centre to a chapel and altar. In
the church is a long stone table, the single slab being about 11
feet by 5, on which rests a prized volume of the Syrian Scrip
tures. The slab shows a cleft across ; which is explained to have
been the act of Taimur Lang, or Tamerlane, who robbed the jewels
of the altar. A ruffianly Kurd, one Yezdan Shah, is said to have
done some damage here also but a few years ago. The mosaic
on the roof of the chapel and the tesselated pavement are
worth inspection. At one time the monastery is said to have
contained 1,000 monks, while now there are only three. Alto
gether the visit was highly interesting. At Middiat I was
lodged in a Jacobite house under the care of two old ladies.
The Turks made a show of sending soldiers for my protection;
as if a Jacobite town was not fully as safe as a Muslim one.