'Travels from India to England : comprehending a visit to the Burman Empire, and a journey through Persia, Asia Minor, European Turkey, &c., in the years 1825-26, by James Edward Alexander' [‎142] (213/412)

142 PERSIA.
On the 4th we marched to Imaum Zada Ismael, three fursungs, a
small town in a narrow valley, distinguished by a dome. Here are
ten families of Syeds, which number causes the place to be exempt
from taxes, as they are considered particularly sacred, being descen
dants of the Prophet. The town, or village rather, is not obliged
to provide the Sursdt, or supply provisions, which all the other
places had done through which we had passed. Instead of snow we
now got beautifully clear ice from the hills to cool our liquors.
What a luxury in a hot climate, to have snow or ice throughout the
most disagreeable months of the year, and that in such abundance,
that even our servants were enabled to indulge themselves with it!
Fruit, too, was almost every where to be procured in the greatest
plenty. Apricots were a drug, they were so common ; the same may
be said of melons and plums. It is incredible what quantities of fruit
a Persian will eat: many will devour sixteen melons before breakfast.
We marched on the 5th to Oojan, distant four fursungs. Sur
mounted a not very steep kootul, called that of Imaum Zada Ismael:
the air at the top I found exceedingly bracing and refreshing. I
rode a mule for the first time, it being thought preferable to a horse
for a patient (I had not ventured into a cqjava after the journey from
Persepolis to Futeabad). I found its paces very pleasant, but it was
extremely difficult to guide; and the only mode in which I could
manage it was by hitting it on the side of the head with a large
stick, striking according to the direction in which I wished it to go.
Riding-mules in Persia fetch as high prices as horses. I have seen a
white mule which cost a thousand Persian rupees Indian silver coin also widely used in the Persian Gulf. : white is the
favourite colour for a riding mule.
We descended into the Vale of Heroes, the favourite hunting-field
of