'Collection of journals and reports received from Captain the Hon G C Napier, Bengal Staff Corps, on special duty in Persia, 1874' [‎88] (101/396)

Kampart of
Hamza gultaa.
Proof of
recession of
Caspian.
From Gez there is a path along the beach westward, but it can
only be followed with an experienced guide, for the numerous
creeks and backwaters abound in quicksands, and the fords are
few and unmarked. The path to Nowkanda, Gullogah, and
Ashraf lies across a marshy plain covered with dense beds of reeds
and cane and immense tangled masses of bramble. The few
clearings are cultivated with rice, and remain more or less under
water the whole year. Three or four miles west from Gez a high
green rampart of earth runs from the base of the mountains
through the forest and over the marshy plain to the shore. It is
said to have been raised by Hamza Sultan, an ancestor of the
present Khan of Anazan, as a defence against an attack of the
Lurs, 250 years ago. The Lurs were defeated with a loss of
20,000 men, and finally driven out of Mazanderan. So stands
the tradition, but the Lurs came from the west, and the rampart
was obviously made for defence against an enemy coming from
the east for the ditch is to the east, and the banquette or path
under the crest of the bank to the west. The Turkomans are
more likely therefore to have been the invaders, but why tradi
tion should confound them with the Lurs is a riddle. A rampart
so formed with natural slopes and a broad crest is indestructible,
it is possible therefore that it is as old as, and had some connec
tion with, Alexander's wall on the opposite shore of the bay. If
of no other interest the rampart gives a very satisfactory proof of
the alleged recession of the Caspian. The sea flank is now at
some distance, not less than 300 or 400 yards from the water's
edge. Swamps and cane-brake rendered it unapproachable, but of
the fact there was no doubt. The slope of the shore is very gentle,
reeds growing out above the water at 100 yards distance. From
Gez to Hasht Tikka, the last village in Asterabad, is a distance of
about six miles, equal to double the distance on fair ground, for
the ride with a few short stoppages occupied nearly three hours.
Ith December. Ashraf, 16 miles. —From Hasht Tikka the road
runs west, following the Shah Abbas road and crossing a small
stream which divides the two provinces, passes for a couple of
miles through the scattered farms, gardens, and orchards of Gul
logah. The people could not give a satisfactory reason for their
building over so large an extent of ground in a country in which
every yard of land has to be reclaimed from a tenacious and in
eradicable forest growth, but it' is obviously a precaution against
fire. 1 he houses are of cane and light woodwork, and are usually
surrounded with ricks of hay and straw. The village is a large
one, and is ^said to have a population of 4,000 to 5,000 souls,
which is quite possible, for it covers not less than two to three
square miles. Beyond it is the high road enclosed by a double
hedge and in better order, passes through a fine, open, well cul
tivated country, marshy towards the shore, but firm and dry for
several miles from the hill slopes. The distance from the shore
to the cultivated margin (some distance up the hill slopes) is at
this point about eight miles. Forest, except in patches, entirely
disappears; the fields are clear, and well fenced and drained, and