'Narrative of a Residence in Koordistan, and on the Site of Ancient Nineveh; with Journal of a Voyage down the Tigris to Bagdad and an Account of a Visit to Shirauz and Persepolis.' [‎203] (238/450)

LET. II.] PASS OF KUTAL I DOKHTER. 203
niaiseries and contradictory flitting notions that cross
his mind are instantly uttered in the tone of a boat
swain hailing the top in stormy weather. Enough
however of Ali Esker, who amused us much on the
road.
At seven in the evening we started from Kauze-
roon, not without some difficulty ; for the muleteers,
who were all natives of Kauzeroon, had a great
hunkering after a day's rest here. We proceeded
along the plain, and after night-fall, turning to the
mountains which bound it on the south, we stood
under the black and frowning cliff of the Dokhter,
which seemed to bar all further progress; yet up the
face of this we were to ascend; how, it was impos
sible to say, at least by this light*. We soon how
ever found that an entirely artificial road zigzagged
up the face of this perpendicular and gigantic wall.
Imagine the Sarmashook'j", or perhaps something
more, not to be crossed, but ascended up from the
plain to the summit, and you will have some idea of
tlie Kutal i Dokhter; but far different are the roads.
The Dokhter is a most skilfully constructed road,
buttressed, levelled, and parapetted, so as not to alarm
the most timid, and broad enough to allow of several
mules abreast. It is in thorough repair, and is
almost worth coming to see. It may be called the
* Look at Dante's description of the rock of Purgatory. I
have not time to quote it.
t A mountain road we had crossed in Asia Minor.— Ed.