‘Military report on south-west Persia, including the provinces of Khúzistán (Arabistan), Luristán and part of Fars.’ [‎19r] (42/470)

17
channels or rather drains. The Europeans of the Telegraph Department do
not, in this sacred city, lead a joyous existence, and no lady dares to show
herself in its streets uncovered by the white sheet worn by Persian woman,
lest the populace should insult her.
Being instructed not to visit Tehran (to do so was quite unnecessary, the
roa eing well known), halting at Kum on the 2nd May to change carriage,
Kum to Gulpaigan. ^ ie P ai 'ty set out for Gulpaigan by the
direct road and reached it by the following' stages
May 3rd, Daghan
May 4th, Daulatabad
May 5th, Muhallat
May 6th, Nazi a
May 7th, Gulpaigan
5 stages
Miles.
15
24
24
28
21
112
Elevation.
Feet.
3,860
4,570
5,920 Serai.
5,775
5,875 Serai.
A mixed pack-animal carriage of mules and ponies was entertained as far as
Isiahan at the rate of 14 krans per day per animal.
The mule road is good and level for some 50 miles from Kum, following
generally the valley of the Ab-i-Khonsar. The road then leaves the valley
and passes over the hill known as the Godar-i-nar, at an elevation of 7,890',
before descending into Mahallat, a large and flourishing village, well
watered and surrounded by cultivation and fine timber trees. Thence do
Gulpaigan the mule road taken (there are alternative ones, see part IV) is
generally level and good to the foot of the Hulwand, passing between un
dulations and hills separated by flat and often broad valleys. The hills and
undulations are steep and barren; the valleys are often uncultivated. Wells
are almost unknown; water is obtained from streams. After crossing the
Hulwand at an elevation of 8,200/ the road descends into Gulpaigan
Gulpaigan occupies an important position on the road between Isfahan and
Gulpaigan. Burujird, Hamadan, &c., yet its bazar is small and its
TT^ll cnn r 1 '*1 tra ^ e insignificant ; it lies in a wide and fertile vallev and
is well supplied with fruit gardens.
This road is said never to be closed by snow, although it falls for three
months and lies at times 2 feet deep (see details, Part IP).
III.
Gulpaigdn, Ah-Gudar, Zarda-Kuh and Isfahan, shirting the Bahhtiari hills.
In order to ascertain what roads passed through the Bakhtfan hills be-
Gulpaigan to Ali- ^ v ® en Shustar and Dizful and the line Isfahan, Buru-
Gudar. prd, and their nature, halting at Gulpaigan on the 8th
/ji . .. May to obtain all possible information eoneernino* them
!lvaU a o/7 7 ° 26 T.VT P rf ^ ° n the 9th Ma .v to Khonsar
i 1 , . reet), distant 18 miles. Khonsar represents a series of villao-e^
known by various names, occupying the bed of a narrow and most fertile valley’
Khonsar. un der the snow-clad Khonsar range. Fruit here
3