'Persia and the Persian Question by the Hon. George Nathaniel Curzon, M.P.' [‎169] (204/714)

MESHED
169
and very fat, but wears an amiable expression, and, although un
like the Shah, has the distinctive Kajar features. His hair was
Conversa- black, but a white stubble ornamented his chin. His
th^Rukn- clress was tlie Ttolah, or lambskin bonnet, and the ordinary
ed-Dowieh black large-skirted coat and trousers of the Persian
grandee. White cotton gloves covered his hands, which he crossed
affably upon his stomach.
Our conversation was not of surpassing interest, as the Governor
contented himself with civil and conventional replies. I asked him
if he thought railways were likely to come in Persia. ' If God be
willing, yes,' was the somewhat ambiguous rejoinder. Of the
possible lines, he thought that from Teheran to Kum was most
likely to be the first constructed. He said that the mineral re
sources of his province were very great (which is probably true),
and comprised gold, silver, lead, copper, and coal. When I asked
him whether the people knew anything about the Shah's recent
reception in Europe, and particularly in England, he answered
' No ; how should they ? Only the officials and upper classes know.
Three newspapers are published in Teheran, and of one of these
100 copies are brought every week to Meshed. Later on, when
the Shah's diary is published, people will read it, and then they
will know.'
My interview with His Royal Highness left upon me the same
impression that did the conversation of so many of the Persian
ministers whom I afterwards encountered—viz. the existence
of an abstract willingness for the internal development of their
country, but a total absence of initiative, and a passive acquies
cence in the status quo.
In the succeeding chapter I shall have something to say about
the armed forces of the Khorasan province. I may here limit my
attention to the garrison of Meshed, which consists of
three infantry regiments of 800 each, usually regiments
recruited in the Turkish province of Azerbaijan; a precaution
which is supposed to preclude any possible fraternisation between
the populace and the military. There are reported to be some
twenty light field guns in the Ark. But as they are never brought
out, as the artillerymen never practise working them, and as the
horses are never exercised, they would probably not constitute a
very formidable battery in actual warfare.
The only two foreign Powers officially represented, or who