'Persia and the Persian Question by the Hon. George Nathaniel Curzon, M.P.' [‎284] (325/714)

284
PERSIA
Already, upon arriving af rhp posthouse of Shahrud—which is
unique in the possession of a threefold lala-khoneh—l had observed
Depata- unfamiliar symjTtoms of refinement, in the shapp of a
turn from druggeted floor and curtained doorwavs. On my return
Governor from the bazaars I was proceeding to make my toUet
and was already in a state of semi-deshabille, when, without the
slightest warning, I became aware of a further act of official atten
tion. 1 wo Armenians first entered unannounced, both of whom
could speak a little French. One was the agent of Messrs. Zie^ler
in Shahrud, the other of a firm named Tumanianz. I presumed
that they had come out of curiosity, as they offered no explana
tion. But in the East such amenities cannot be resented, requiring
rather to be interpreted as tokens of civility. Wherefore I con
tinued my toilet while discussing the trade and commerce of
Shahrud. Presently, however, the doorway of the bala-khaneh was
again daikened, and a trio of Persian officials marched in. while
a possf ot attendants stood outside. Phev were succeeded by
some menials carrying a tray, on which were two packets of tea
and foui sugar-loaves wrapped up in blue paper; following whom
appeared two other individuals holding by the legs a kicking sheep,
while a third balanced a couple of cane-bottomed chairs behind,
I really think that I am justified in presenting this to my readers
as a spectacle of no mean dramatic effect.
Scene. A mud room in a Persian posthouse.
Du amatxs I ersonce. Englishman in flannel shirt, breeches, and
stockings only ; Armenian traders ; Persian chamberlains; struggling
sheep.
Dramatic Accessories. —Sugar-loaves and cane-bottomed chairs.
I now realised that I was the recipient of a formal deputation
ftom the 1 rince-Governor of Shahrud, who had sent to welcome and
to invite me to become his guest at Bostam, and that the Armenians
had been despatched as a sort of advanced guard to reconnoitre
and interpret. By their aid I was enabled to acknowledge the
hospitality of the Governor and to accept his gifts—a process which
naturally involved the return of an equivalent present to the depu
ties. Having pocketed a few tomans 10,000 Persian dinars, or a gold coin of that value. with much satisfaction, these
worthies forthwith realised that no more business was to be done.
ference, and terminated in a lofty pointed cone, in which was a single window.
Two belts of Arabic inscriptions demonstrated a kindred origin to the tower of
Bostam.