Correspondence and Papers on Persia [‎155r] (63/245)

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Geo.—Sykes—First Proof.
consul-general, a prominent Fellow of this Society, not only gave me much
valuable advice, but also furnished me with letters of introduction.
In consequence, I did not enter Persia by the usual route, but crossed
from Baku to Uzun-Ada, the starting-point of the Transcaspian railway,
and thence steamed down the eastern coast of the Caspian to its south
east corner.
At Ashurada, a tiny island off the coast of Mazanderan, we lay to
off the Russian naval station for a few hours, and soon after reached
the end of the “ Murdab,” or lagoon, where we rowed through myriads
of duck and every sort of aquatic bird, all strangely tame, to the
rickety pier of Bunder Gez, after traversing which we found ourselves
nearly up to the knees in mud. There being no hotel, and tents being
out of the question, we were only too glad to find quarters at the
telegraph office, where we received a warm welcome.
After two days’ delay, we started for Astrabad in wet weather, and
enjoyed a very full experience of what muddy roads can be. The mules
were not so badly off, their loads being high up on their backs; but
the ponies, which carried my servant and myself, must have been very
weary, as we could hardly ever keep our feet out of the mud, so deep
was it. Five hours’ marching through this mire only brought us 7
miles on our way; but, as we were told that the road upon the morrow
was much better, we decided to halt for the night, and found quarters
in the village of Kurd Mahalla, in the house of its headman, who holds
the rank of major in the Persian army. Our host professed himself a
profound theological student, and, after introducing the subject generally
by stating that all Europeans worshipped machines, was anxious to
know whether we English worshipped a steamer or a locomotive.
On the following morning the country, which had hitherto been a
melancholy tangle of low thorns and bushes, became quite park-like,
and, as it cleared up, matters looked more cheerful. On passing through
the village, which covers a large area, as every one lives inside a garden,
we saw wheat being thrashed by means of a see-saw—a girl sitting
on one end of the plank, and pulling herself up and down by a rope
suspended above her. It was nearly sunset when, amid a deafening
chorus of jackals, we entered the city of Astrabad, through a dilapidated
gate. Inside not a soul was to be seen, and we rode on for a considerable
distance before we pounced upon a stray citizen, whom we induced to
guide us to the house of the British agent.
My first inquiries were as to the possibility of travelling up the
river Atrek to Bujnurd, but my host told me that the country was so
disturbed, that the Persian government would insist on sending a large
escort with me, which would have effectually prevented my mixing
with the Turkomans, and so I determined not to seek any aid from the
authorities.
For about a week I made constant shooting-trips into the Elburz
range, during the course of which I bagged a few wild boars, but saw
no signs of the magnificent stags that roam the beautiful forests.
Meanwhile my preparations were being qxiietly made, and I marched
off due north to the Gurgan river, across a rich alluvial plain, until we
sighted Ak-Kala, a fort that commands the bridge over the Gurgan, and
the home of the present royal family of Persia. We then turned due
east, and followed up the river until we reached the encampment of
Moussa Khan, the chief of the Ak Ata Bai, the most powerful tribe of
Yomut Turkomans.
The camp consisted of about thirty “ alachuk, and as I lived in
these very superior nomad dwellings for nearly a month, it might be as
well to describe them.
We must first of all imagine a huge beehive framework of wood,
some 16 feet in diameter, over which thick black felt is stretched, and
we have an ideal movable house, which, in cold weather, is infinitely
superior to any tent.
Inside are the “ lares and penates,” packed up in big trunks, while
the rifles of the owners hang within easy reach. Strips of carpet are
stretched round wherever there are joinings in the’ felt, and altogether,
when the fire is lit on the hearth, one enjoys a feeling of real comfort.
I fortunately had a letter of introduction from Colonel Stewart for
my host, and in it my plan of travelling up the Atrek was mentioned.
Moussa at first, however, utterly declined to help me, averring that I