Correspondence and Papers on Persia [‎161r] (75/245)

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Geo.—Sykes—First Proof. ®
miles from the coast there is a sand desert, with small hamlets, which
draw their supply of water from shallow wells. Behind this is another
belt of about the same size, consisting of low hills composed of mud or
slate.
Proceeding further inland, it will be noticed that there are continuous
ranges of mountains running from east to west parallel to the sea.
and so regular is this formation, that all attempts at opening up com
munications in these parts must be done either to the east or west, as
any road direct to the coast will lead over range after range of rugged
hills. Thanks to the kindness of Mr. Possman, the director-general of
the Persian Gulf The historical term used to describe the body of water between the Arabian Peninsula and Iran. telegraphs, we found camels awaiting us at Chahbar,
and, owing to the exertions of Mr. Lorell, in charge of the telegraph
office, we were able to get twenty-seven camels loaded up the day after
landing our six horses and stores.
The quarrels as to the partition of loads, and the interest taken by so
many people in the camels, revealed to us the fact that several of these
animals were divided into legs, each of which had a separate owner.
The usual plan, we were informed, was for the driver to have one leg s
interest in each camel, which was allowed in lieu of wages and rations.
Our first march brought us to Tez, the famous Arab port in mediaeval
times, but now no signs of departed greatness exist, except the innumer'
able tombs of deceased worthies, and we had to drink filthy water out
of a shallow hole, and be thankful that there was enough for all our
party.
Although marching by day was terribly trying for man and beast
alike, the Beluchis spent so long in wrangling over the loads, and in
tying them on, that it was 10 a.m. before the last of our camels started,
and, as the road at first lay along the coast at the foot of a cliff, our
horses very soon began to give in. We therefore halted for several
hours in the shade, near some water-holes, riding on to camp in the
evening.
We there found only about half of our caravan, the other portion
having halted 2 or 3 miles back, in a rage at being compelled to march
some 12 miles, as they said that 7 miles is the limit of a march in
Beluchistan.
All travellers in this country should be provided with an inex
haustible fund of patience, as the only part that the Beluchi camel-
driver plays is to prevent any load whatever being put on his camel,
while, if at all discontented, they will all decamp without giving any
notice.
In order to try for an earlier start, we halted for a day, and then
pushed on at sunrise the following morning. However, the march was
long, and by the time we reached Pesh Mant our horses had to be led,
so utterly prostrate were they. Many of the party also suffered from
sun fever, mainly because they got slightly chilled before the sun rose,
and so felt the sudden change acutely. After four trying marches, we
struck the Geh river, where we decided to make another halt.
Just before reaching camp, I saw a couple of wolves, which fact is
interesting, as they are not known to exist so near the coast.
In the bed of the “ kaur,” the Beluchi term for river, we found
isolated pools of doubtful water; but a march higher up, we came upon
a bright flowing stream, bordered by palm groves.
Geh is a large village, built on the fork between two branches of
the river, and, with its large palm groves, forms a delighttul picture.
As so many of our party had suffered from fever, we determined to
make a rapid march in light order to Fanoch, and return to Geh by a
different route. This we did with great success, finding at Mokht, a
village near our route, a remarkable kind of glass bangle, of which I
have given specimens to the British Museum. The pass below Fanoch
must be a unique road. For 7 or 8 miles one has to scramble over
boulders of the most varied hues, every colour of the rainbow being
there, which gives an effect of great beauty.
My companion’s geological researches convinced the governor of
Fanoch that we must be in want of stone, and he was much disappointed
when we showed no inclination to deal.
Upon our return route, which was also across unexplored country,
we struck the main river at Ichan, and so back to Geh. \\ e here found