'Seistan' [‎16v] (32/782)

The Political Assistant, Chagai, had kindly procured a camp flagstaff for
me and, upon returning to the capital, the flag was hoisted for the first time.
Rather to my surprise, as I knew that most of the upper class had visited
Meshed, there was much opposition shown by the Governor, while the attitude
of the “ Mullahs ” was overtly menacing.
Messages were so constantly sent, with absurd requests, that I declined to
receive any further communication on the subject, except in writing and, for. two
or three days, I anticipated trouble, but as I declined to move from my position,
while the Governor was averse from committing himself on paper, the new
status quo was accepted, while I finally received a most complete apology
from the chief “ Mullah ” for his behaviour, which, he ingenuously, stated, had
been solely dictated from fear of the consequences, had he not sided with the
popular feeling.
After remaining at Nasratabad, until this question, the happy solution of
which put matters on a proper footing, and increased our prestige, was settled, I
continued my tour round the north of Seistan.
At two points I explored the lake on a raft constructed of bundles of reeds,
which are tied together in a form similar to a bisected cigar, kor hours I was
punted through high reeds, the haunt of countless wild fowl and a veritable El
Dorado for naturalists, but open water was never reached, d he southern portion
of the lake is quite different, the water there being perfectly open, while the rising
off the water of immense numbers of swans, geese, and every other water-bird,
produced a roar, for all the wmrld, like surf beating on rocks.
We crossed the Rud-i-Perian, which is now, as I have explained in my last
despatch, the main stream of the Helmund, at its mouth.
We found three branches, averaging a hundred and fifty yards in width with
several minor channels ; the river which was rising, was half-way up my saddle
flaps, so that it was very anxious work with the camels, all of whom, assisted by
several men got safely across, while nothing of importance got spoilt.
The district of Mian Kangi, which we entered in this manner, is densely
covered with tamarisk jungle, growing to a height of twenty feet, while there is
a considerable amount of very slovenly cultivation carried on. The inhabitants
are mostly of Baluchi origin, who have been encouraged to settle and protect the
frontier, and it was pleasant to hear how unanimously Persian rule was favourably
contrasted with that of the Afghan Governor, whose extortions have depopulated
the district under his control, much to the benefit of Persian Seistan.
More than one peasant narrated that no melons were grown on the Afghan
side, as the soldiers would eat them without payment, while tea and sugar were
smuggled across the frontier, all commerce having been strangled. There are
some four hundred Afghan regulars stationed along the frontier, while at Farrah,
the residence of the Governor General, there are said to be four thousand men,
but this I doubt.
The district of Mian Kangi was almost impassable, owing to the dense jun
gle and the flooded channels, but, as the river was full, we w r ere obliged to march
throughout its length as at one point only, does it run in a single branch; at
Miluk we found a swift flowing river, where a month previously donkeys had been
leisurely marched across.
Our gear, to use the comprehensive naval term, was put on to rafts, and the
horses all swam, although one or two were carried away and nearly drowned.
Eight gourds were securely bound on to the back of each camel, and a
swimmer with gourds pulled them in front, while a second man rode on
their tails behind. In this manner, our twenty-five camels were towed across the
seething torrent, quite passive and not making the slightest effort to swim.
Upon returning to Nasratabad, we were greeted with the utmost good wall
by the officials, w'ho showed the greatest readiness to meet my wishes in every
way, as an instance of which I may mention that some soldiers who had insulted