'Seistan' [‎22v] (44/782)

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ruu *rr"f ^•"V.r.Ws cliifflv walnuts. Following the watercourse which
runs^betweei^orchards'^on 'each sfde, a (Utile is entered on each hank of which
»rent cliffs nearly pernerdicular, at the base' of which the stream winds.
This is the list stagi in Kuchan territory. Zuaran has about 60 families, who,
unaccustomed to strange rs, came out to observe us.
April 28th, 1899.—To Chinaran, about 13 miles. The morning looked
rainy and it was cold. Our path lay up and down a succession of hi Is entirely
barren which form a fair line of demarcation between Kuchan and Bnpurd
terdtory I could see large flocks and the black tents of the nomads in he
distance' After some miles 1 reached a small village with a trickle of water,
called Kizil Kalab (the red fort). Continuing over the barren hills the culti
vation of the villa-e of Novdak was reached. This is a large village with an
ample supply of water which irrigated many thousands of acres under wheat
cultivation. The scenery on the way down to Chmaran was very attractive,
the liuce rocks of the mountains coming down into the green wheat, the
villa^of Chinaran had a fine supply of water from a spring which bursts out
of the rock. It contains about tiOO houses. There is a great deal of wheat
cultivation round it. Between Zuaran and Chinaran there are several tracks
One of these, fit for wheeled traffic, passes by the village of Shurak, wi h about
60 families. Chinaran is in Bujnurd territory. The original village was on
very high ground, but aficr the suppression of the Turkoman raids the inhabi.
tants built houses lower down. T he inhabitants are Shadillu Kurds. Azizulla
Be" Peshkhidmat of the Deputy Governor of Bujnurd, and Muhammad Reza
Be”’ Kadkhudaof Chinaran, arrived from Bujnurd in the course of the day.
They were sent hy Muhammad KuliKhan in charge of affairs at Bujnurd during
fhp nVispnpfi of the chief, to accomnanv my camp.
April 29th, 1899.—To Bujnurd, about 11 miles. The path lay along a
well cultivated valley, the irrigation water running in channels along both sides,
while a natural stream ran down the centre. This valley ended in a well culti
vated plain surrounded by hills. The plain contained many orchards with the
village of Ilusainabad (30 families) and a small fort called Gokkamar. Ike
village of Kishlak, about 15 families, is close to Gokkamar. Thence the road
runs up a sharp ascent to a dip called the Ak ICotal (the white pass).. The
whole hill here is somewhat white. From the top of the pass there is an
extended view. In the distance Bujnurd could be descried. I be road then
led down the uncultivated hill slopes, and after several ascents and descents
a point was reached where a reception party was ready to receive me,
headed by Muhammad Kuli Khan, Deputy Governor of Bujnurd, Mirza
Ali Akbar Khan, Postmaster, and Mirza Hadi Khan, Passport officer. Ihe
party was accompanied hy a large number of sowars, a carriage, and 2 led
horses. Proceeding, we soon reached an outlying village where the populace
crowded out to see us, and then we came in sight of an extensive plain
surrounded hy a great amphitheatre of hills in the centre of which lies
Bujnurd. The town consists of the usual mass of mud huts. 'Ihe chief
has built a large new house for himself with a pent house tiled roof, an
unusual sight in this part of the world. The walls are a curious mixture of
European and Persian styles, ornamented in parts with Persian tiles. Kext
to this building, in a large garden, is a domed hath, and next this is a gateway
of purely Persian architecture, covered over with ornamental Persian tiles. r lhe
garden also contains a summer hou e with a domed roof. The chief was him
self absent in the Goklan country, where he had gone to collect revenue, taking
almost every available man with him. The wife of the chief, however, sent to
say that she had got a building ready for me in a garden called Farahalza, hut
as my tents were pitched 1 preferred to use them. In the evening I visited
this building, passing first through a gateway with Persian tiling rather tawdry
in appearance, thence the road lay through a garden; passing the town which
is laid out in square form, a long avenue of poplars is reached terminating