Notes Prepared for Reference during Curzon’s Tour of the Persian Gulf, and Other Papers on Persia and the Persian Gulf [‎312v] (624/678)

o
did not see. He is in Tehran with the Bakhtiari Horse. Hajji Ali Kuli Khan goes
there shortly to relieve him. # .
The Chaab-es^Sultaneh, Hajji Imam Kuli Khan’s son, I did not see either, as he is
now in Arabistan in command of the conting’ent ot Bakhtiari Horse there, and also in
assisting the Nizam-es-Sultaneh in his duties. He is far and away the most capable of
the Eel Khaneh’s sons.
In speaking to various Bakhtiaris I met, they, in reply to my questions, seemed
to think that of all these Khans there were only three worthy ot consideration,
i.e., Isfendiar, Nejef, and Hajji Ali Kuli. The former was described as the good
political man, able to deal with the Government in Tehran, Ispahan, 01 Arabistan. In a
word, that he was the man for government par excellence.
Kejef Kuli Khan was the man for the Bakhtiari. That is to say, he was the man for
leading a raid, and would bring loot into the camp.
Hajji Ali Kuli Khan was the learned or educated man. His knowledge and digging
propen ities seemed to have gained him great respect. I was for three days their guest
in their camp, and was treated quite like a friend, and in true Bakhtiaii spiiit. Iliey
used to come into my tents together or separately and sit and chatter for hours, all in
the most friendly way, utterly sans gene. Among themselves they seemed more like
ourselves, friendly to a degree, addressing each other by name, joking and laughing,
quite without the formal manner customary among Persians. It was altogether a
pleasant revelation.
I had one or two private talks with Isfendiar Khan together with Hajji Ali Kuli
Khan; there was apparently no reserve in their behaviour towards each other, they
seemed to be of one mind, and spoke on perfect equality.
In the first case the conversation turned on the question of making the road
practical from Ispahan to Shuster. They said that they were quite willing and anxious
to do anything that they could to facilitate such an end, it was what they all wanted.
They quite saw how it would open up their country and improve the prospects of the
tribes, and generally help to the much wished-for end of taking the tribesmen out of
their wild state and civilize them. This was a traditional idea with the Khans. The
little things I pointed out could be easily done, they said, the only one difficult question
was the. bridge, that to them was the stumbling-block. Although Hajji Ali Kuli Khan
had taken this on himself, and for the tribe’s sake was anxious to do something, yet he
did not see what he could do. If they built a bridge, got from England, the Govern
ment would immediately assume that they were in an opulent state, and would increase
their taxes. This was a question in which they wanted help. (A present of such a
bridge as was necessary would be good policy, I think, if Her Majesty’s Government are
willing to help the Bakhtiaris. Such a present, while adding to our prestige with them,
would greatly assist our commercial interests, and would be of use in the future should
occasion call on us to occupy this country. But if it was not thought advisable to give
and build such a bridge, I believe I could, with the assistance of one of my old telegraph
staff, now in Ispahan, Mr. McIntyre, build them a suspension bridge, on the lines of a
military one, which would not cost very much; all that we should require would be
some 340 yards of 3Ainch steel wire rope, together with shackles, blocks, and
tackles, &c.; with native workmen and material we could, in a month or so, build thorn
such a bridge as would very materially assist them and ourselves, and which, with
ordinary care, would last many years.)
The Bakhtiaris are ready to give any guarantees for the safety of all mer
chandize, &c., passing through their country ; they would build caravanserais, make the
roads good wherever necessary, they would put on their own muleteers and mules,
against all which they only would require a right to levy a regular tax, as is done in
other parts of the country. It would have to be done in order, and a regular contract
would have to be drawn out with them covering all these points. Hajji Ali Kuli Khan
was going to Tehran in a few weeks to take over charge of the Bakhtiari Horse, and he
would take a letter from Isfendiar Khan to the Minister, giving him authority to act in
every way in this affair. Thus he would be an accredited agent ot the Bakhtiari Chiefs
with the Minister.
They then went on to refer to some conversations they had had with Major Sawyer
and General Gordon, in which reference had been made to the probability of our having
use for them, that we might make a base of their country for military operations in the
north, annex the Province of Arabistan, &c. I gave them to understand that I had no
knowledge of any such questions, and had no instructions to speak about them. As
Hajji Ali Kuli Khan was going to Tehran he could say all that was necessary on the
subject to the Minister.