Manuscript of Persia and the Persian Question (Continued) [‎45r] (89/690)

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_ IjDAVIW rftOM A DIALl UJ lirFlLAUUH unmn.
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miserable agora. There are no khan8, or caravanserais, for merehants,
such (wTare usually found in Oriental cities.
i rA' veiy large proportion of the population are Seyids (i.e. descen-
IjflhnWof the Prophet^), whose voluminous green turban, here even
foof'e than elsewhere, seems to be an excuse for insufferable airs,
gross superstition, and an indolent life. Of their attitude towards
strangers, however, the most conflicting accounts have been left by
English visitors. Layard and Selby have spoken thereof in terms
of the highest praise; and I cannot but attribute the favourable
reception of Selby and his crew to the personal popularity and
prestige of the great traveller under whose auspices they came.
Layard wrote :— ,
“ I received from some of its principal inhabitants much kindness, which
was the mere remarkable as they wore almost without exception Seyids, very
strict in their religious observances, and having the reputation of being ex
ceedingly fanatical and unfriendly to Christians. They were always ready to
afford me information, especially as to the produce and resources of the country.
They listened with interest to my schemes for establishing commercial relations
between Khuzistan and Europe and India, leading me to hope that if an
attempt were made to promote trade, they would encourage it, and would
afford protection to any English merchant who might be disposed to como
himself or send an agent to’Shuster.” 1
/V
C Nor was the verdict of the quartermaster of the Assyria much
less complimentary, when in reply to a question from Sir H.
Layard as to what he thought of Shuster, “ Well, sir,” he said, “ it
ain’t a bad place, but there baint a puolic in it.” 3
That Selby, however, felt a little nervous as to the perfect justice
of his tribute, is evident from his next paragraph, where he says:—
“In writing thus highly of the Shu^eris, I fear I may be considered as
having drawn too highly-coloured and flattering a picture. Let future experi
ence and knowledge of them decide the point, nor, until they are found un
worthy of the character I have given them, let them be classed with their
oppressive neighbours, the Persians.”
(1) Early Adventures, vol. ii., p. 282; ef. pp. 44, 340, 357.
(2) Journal of the vol. xiv., p. 230.
(3) Early Adventures, vol. ii., p. 357.
S'-S-