'The Transactions of the Bombay Geographical Society. From January 1865 to December 1867. (Edited by the Honorary Secretary.) Volume XVIII.' [‎12] (147/268)

12 OVERLAND JOURNEY PROM
they reach the Tigris from this point in eight hours, taking wheat,
harley, and tobacco. Near the low, rocky ranges of hills, such as the
Hamrin and others near Kifri, the soil is less productive, perhaps
because cultivation is less attempted. Here, however, the verdure
of the plains would render the term ‘ Desert ’ inapplicable ; and, if the
population were not few and scattered, rich harvests might reasonably
be anticipated.
8. Flocks and herds abound, as might be expected among a people
whose habits are essentially pastoral, such as the Arab and Kurd of
these tracts. Indeed as regards fresh provisions the traveller is here
better off than in India, for if he please he may have constant supplies.
Fowls are almost everywhere abundant. Milk, in the pure form, or in
the sour stage (‘ Shanina’), or in more solid curds (‘ Yoghurd’),
known in India as Dai, is to be procured in every village unaffected by
desertion or decay. The cheeses are somewhat void of flavour, but not
to be despised.
9. Fruits of some kind are to be found in the larger villages.
The most common is the small apricot, called by the Arabs ‘ Mish-
mish.’ Ice was brought from the town of Arbeil to the Kurdish tent
in which we were located, and proved highly acceptable. Wines are
made both at Kerkuk and Mosul.
10. Crossing the Tigris for the first time at Jezireh, and ascending
into what may be called Upper Mesopotamia, the country does not, cer
tainly, improve in fertility. But, in spite of the absence of those vast
sheets of corn which cover the valley or plains of the Tigris to the
eastward of the river, a new vegetation presents itself to the eye in these
rugged high-lands, which has its charms for the traveller. Before
reaching Mardin we come upon a most refreshing garden-land, a land
of the walnut, plum, cherry, and apple trees; of vines and of flowers;
ot cascades and running streams. The general characteristic is perhaps
the barrenness of stunted Indian jungle, but in examining the crannies
and the defiles these attractions come to light. Between Mardin and
Diarbekir, even amid many hard and inhospitable-looking hills, there is
to he discerned at intervals a fine rich soil ; hut the general appearance
of fertility falls far short of the plains east of the Tigris, and rock or
stone prevail. Water is ample, either from rivers, streams, or roadside
fountains. These last increase in number as we approach Asia Minor.
At Mai din and Diarbekir supplies of all kinds are procurable, and to
almost any amount.