'The Transactions of the Bombay Geographical Society. From January 1865 to December 1867. (Edited by the Honorary Secretary.) Volume XVIII.' [‎18] (153/268)

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OYEBLAND JOUBNEY FROM
22* As for the genuine Turks or Osmaulis, the actual miersof
the soil, take them en masse there is much to admire, lake them
individually, and there are doubtless many specimens of humanity which
will not only provoke the criticism of their European brethren but
oftentimes their hatred and contempt. Take them by classes, and
although the distinction of high and low, lichand poor, is not defined
as with us, there is still the barrier dividing Dives from his humbler
fellow, and showing the latter in the far more advantageous light. For
my own part I have every reason to be satisfied with the civility and
attention shown to me, whether by the officials who met me at various
stages, and escorted me from place to place, the kind hosts who received
me, or the Pachas and men in authority at the larger towns. In the
first instance, and indeed up to Kharput, I bad come as a simple
traveller, and the ‘ Buymilti’ or ‘Perwana’ of Namik Pacha with
which I had been provided at Bagdad had seldom been required to aid
me on the road. But a slight change was perceptible as we entered
Asia Minor; and I was surprised to find a regular f IstikbaF sent out
from the Pacha both at Sivas and Angureh. The Pacha of Kerkuk
I had not called on. At Mosul we had been lodged by Mr. Vice-
Consul Rassam. The Pacha of Diarbekir was most friendly, and it
was no doubt at his own instigation, as we knew it to be out of his
own kitchen, that his Italian doctor gave us an evening banquet.
The Pacha of Kharput was absent on our arrival, at Malatyah. At
Sivas we were shown a house assigned to us, but we preferred staying
at the Telegraph Office. At Angureh the Pacha housed us, supplied
us with servants from the palace, made us live as his guests, and paid
us a friendly visit at our lodgings. This was the last headquarters of a
Pacha at which I arrived before taking post-horses.
23- I could not avoid remarking two prominent features in the
character of the modern Asiatic Turk as he appeared to mein my
progress from Bussora to Constantinople—one was his comparative
fieedom from bigotry and prejudice, the other his general inclination
to European customs. It may be that habitual association with the
Indian Mussulman had led me to expect a different state of things,
and that the contrast presented an unusually strong light. It may be
that I lived too much among the servants of Government to judge
fahly of the true feelings of the people. Certain it is that if religious
toleration is practised under the ‘ Khat-i-Hunfiayun’ of 1856 to an