'The Transactions of the Bombay Geographical Society. From December 1854 to March 1856. (New Issue.) Edited by the Secretary. Volume XII.' [‎59] (170/258)

OBSERVATIONS ON BAGHDAD.
59
having been closed, according to custom, since the Sultan Murad IY.
issued 1'rom it on his departure for Constantinople alter capturing the city
from the Persians. The circuit of the eastern fortifications, including the river
face, is ten thousand six hundred yards, that of the west being five thousand
eight hundred yards, making an entire length of sixteen thousand four hundred
yards of wall, an extent of brick work equal to nine miles and two and a
quarter furlongs nearly of English statute measure* Such however is its
state that it offers scarcely any impediment to a well appointed force, as a
breach could be effected any where in a few minutes cannonade, and the
numerical strength of the garrison and fighting population is so small as to be
incapable of covering the defences if threatened in more points than one.
On the river face the town is quite open, and with small steamers or gunboats,
judiciously anchored so as to command the Sheriahs or landing places, an
invading force might take possession of the place, either through the windows
or balconies of the houses, or by a deliberate march through the open streets.
The citadel offers only the same defences as the town.
The bazars offer nothing beyond the ordinary assemblage of men
and goods pertaining to most Eastern bazars. They have been described
by many travellers at various times when they were in a more flourishing con
dition. The streets are of the same narrow and confined form as other Asia
tic cities, and a wander through them, if we except a few of the mosques and
shrines,! affords a view only of blank brick walls with abutting balconies,
closed or partially screened from a too prying curiosity. The interior of
many of the older houses will, however, repay a visit, for they are handsomely
ornamented with glass, and the walls are often embellished with Arabesque
scrolls and verses from the Koran, or with couplets from favorite parts in boll)
Persian and Arabic characters. They are too comfortably fitted up within
during winter time, while the summer vaults or “ Sirdabs” under ground are
unique residences as necessary to the climate as they are curious to the stran
ger in these parts.
* The walls said to have been built by the Khalif Mastadhir Billah are said to have been
respectively for both portions of the city, as follows : Sams—East side 18,000, West side 12,000,
total Kams 30,000. This quantity of the “ Kam” is universally regarded as a fathom, exceeds
the real length of the walls by the three-fourths of the number. It is either a gross exaggera
tion of Hamdaliah Mustafa or an error in mistaking the “ Kam” or fathom for the Draa
or‘‘Cubit” of seventeen or eighteen inches. The latter more generally used by orientals in
masonic measurements, will about agree with modern observations.
y Some of these are really fine structures, and give to Baghdad the tone and character which
generally pervades our ideas of an oriental city. In addition to this many shrines within the
town, and held in great veneration by Mahomedan sectaries and the political importance of the
country is greatly enh;inced by similar erections in the districts adjoining the capital. I may
instance Kathenein, Samara, Kerbela and Najuf, as towns which must ever attract the national
cupidity of Shiah Governments, as well as attach themselves to the religious fervour of their
people.