'Lord Curzon's Notes on Persia: About 1889-1890' [‎71r] (141/1486)

Two more marches lead over a spur of the Kuh-i-sang Atash, among
nomad camps, and by the head-quarters of a tribe of Persian Iliyats to
the Fort of Tul Halal, situated on an extensive sandy plain somewhat
out of the beaten track. Of the Iliyats or wandering tribes, whom he
met at Gulu Kuh, under their head man Amir Kuli Khan, Lieut.
Vaughan gives the following interesting particulars:—
“ The people are a rough lot, and very different in their manners to the
more refined men of the upper class met with in cities. One of their tents
near that of the Khan, whose guest I was during my stay, was assigned
to me on arrival. They possess immense herds of sheep and goats, and
during the cold weather encamp on the plains in the vicinity of wells
and springs. When the grass in the neighbourhood becomes exhausted,
they strike camp and move to another spot. In tire heat of summer
they reside in the hills and think nothing of moving several hundred
miles from summer to winter quarters. Each tribe has certain recognised
grazing grounds, and it is regarding these that most of their disputes
arise. The women go about unveiled, and are allowed far more freedom
than those who dwell in cities. In this respect, however, the customs of
tribes vary.
“ Some of them will receive a traveller in the most friendly manner,
while others (some of the worst of the marauding Arabs) will murder
him on the first opportunity that may present itself. The tribes of
Ears which bear the worst repute in this respect are the Bhaloos and the
Arabi Iliyat. I noticed that when we came upon a camp of the latter,
though in broad daylight and within sight of a town, my escort were
very anxious to pass them as rapidly as possible. I believe the one
reason why they are so untrustworthy is that, owing to their wandering
mode of existence, it is very hard to prove anything against them; as
they may be in a place one day and miles away the next. A great part
of the population of Persia is nomad. Their herds supply most of their
wants ; it is from the goats’ hair that their black tents are woven, and
their ropes twisted. Their overcoats, caps, and carpets are made from
the wool of their sheep ; while their saddles, gaiters, accoutrements, and
often shoes, are made from their skins.
“They always seemed most devoted to their chiefs, whose power
over them is almost absolute; and though respectful in salutation and
other outward forms, even the raggedest and dirtiest of them would
talk to a Khan with great freedom.”