'Lord Curzon's Notes on Persia: About 1889-1890' [‎439r] (897/1486)

Report ly Captain
Wells of a journey made by him from Shuster to Shush and bach and thence
to Ahwaz.
In the castle at Shuster we were housed comfortably enough, considering that it is
a place built by a modern Persian, on a site that doubtless was formerly crowned by a
more useful and ornamental edifice, judging by the grand and appropriate works to be found
in this neighbouhood, all of which kind were built centuries ago.
The site occupied a bold sandstone rock which rises above the Karun river to a height
of 80 feet, and is washed along its north-east face by that river; to the south and east the rock
slopes away, and its base is surrounded by a castellated wall or rampart now in a very bad
state of repair. The castle was built by the present Governor of Dizful when he pre
viously ruled this province some 25 years ago, at which time Shuster was the chief city. He
has shown his sense in moving to Dizful where the inhabitants at all events are less filthy
than the Shusterites. The wonders of Shuster have been described in the Royal Geographical
Society's papers, volume 9 and volume 16, by Sir II. Rawlinson, and by Loftus in his Susiana,
some years ago.
There is very little trade of any sort here. The whole place seems at a standstill. We
Population 6 , 000 . Shustero Ab-Reed m miles, were detained for three days at Shuster, and were
level. One bad bit of road over sandstone ridge for delighted when we escaped across \ alerian s bridge.
* a mile, easily improved. Bad going after rain. Along the road to Dizful we kept the northern-
Direction a little N. of \\. most of the two roads as we should be less liable
to be detained by floods, and, crossing the sandstone and conglomerate ridge which hems
in Shuster on the north-east and north, we traversed an open rich alluvial plain toAb-Beed.
The road crossed two or three nullahs which would be awkward in flood, but would soon run
down. The plain has many villages, and is pretty universally cultivated. Here the Ikkhani
has built himself a fortified house, which he inhabits in winter months. Corn is so plentiful
that our bread was not charged for, nor the corn for our horses, and yet this plain is tilled
in the most slovenly manner by a most lazy people. Ab-Beed has only, say, three families ;
but supplies are plentiful and there is a good spring of sweet water.
We looked out for the shrub “Kalebleb" which attracted Loftus' attention so much
and at last recognised it to be an old friend. Large quantities grow at Daliki near Bushire
to a height even of 12 feet. Loftus is wrong in describing its flower as white and large,
for it is the size of a scarlet geranium and grows in clusters like that flower; it has five
petals and is of a deep purple colour with a white eye. There is no doubt we were looking
at the same plant, as the white sap was there, and the natives volunteered the name Kalebleb
for it. The seed is very peculiar, a huge pod hanging like a pitcher plant flower.
November 25th. —From Ab-Beed to Dizful six very easy farsakhs of level ground
Ab-Bced to Dizful I 8 f miles, level. Cultivation crossing a 500 yards wide watercourse "which
is met with near Dizful. Population 20 , 000 . Chief had already run down and become dry. There
industry, indigo manufactory. Direction W. are low hills to the south, and bluffs of sandstone
to the north, but they both die out before Dizfal is reached. Along the sides of the water
course we found francolin and snipe. Near the latter place are large tracts of ploughed
land haunted by innumerable cranes. The town from a distance looks like Budiire as it stands
on a plain somewhat higher than the right bank of the Dizful and so appears to be oyer
the sea as it were.
which is 40 feet
The view look-
somewhat flooded
The town seems cleaner than Shuster and we are kindly welcomed into the smart telegrapl
office by Mirza Ali Mohammed, the name mentioned by Lady Anne Blunt. There is n<
opium grown here but a large amount of indigo as much as 1,000 camel loads being sen
inland every year.
We employ the evening going down the river and across the bridge
above the stream, 455 paces long and has its 21 arches pretty well in line
ing from the bridge is picturesque and curious, the river is rapid and still
from the rain of the previous few days. It has played havoc with the mills that are built n
rows out into its course. The mill wheels as well as the causeways leading to them showin<
marks of having incurred considerable damage. On the left bank or right hand side lookin'
up stream the conglomerate cliffs rise sheer from the water to a height of 40 feet and abov'
them the quaint mud houses in irregular shapes. In the distance the hot bare hills of th
lower slopes are backed up by the mountains with crests of new fallen snow.
We called on the Wazir Minister. who showed us the way to his subterranean chamber, where h
passes the day during the hot months of the year : and told us of the misery of the summe
season, in this one of the sunniest parts of the Globe.
At length we took our leave and were free to start for the tomb of Daniel. It wa
ik -i * , uv i x- fortunate that we did not depend on the Com
sable after rain. Direction S. mana 0 r-ni-C hiei tor a guide, and did not need a]
escort, for the one did not turn up till we ha<
nearly reached Shush, and ten miserable infantry men arrived the next day when we wer
actually on our way back to Dizful. These 10 being the escort.