The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume XVI, No. 6 [‎374r] (100/232)

ON THE AFGHAN FRONTIER: A RECONNAISSANCE IN SHUGNAN. 673
river, the Baba-Abdal, an affluent on the right bank of the Shakh-Dara. This was
altogether a disagreeable business, the waters being rather deep, and the current
rapid and boisterous. As if these disadvantages were not enough, the bed of the
stream, moreover, was strewn with big stones, and we had several narrow escapes
from accidents. We stopped on the bank of the Shakh-Dara, in sight of the
burial-place of Baba-Abdal. This holy man is so revered by the inhabitants that
many of those accompanying our party descended from their horses and walked
past the tomb as a sign of respect. The burial-place stands on an elevation, and
is visible some distance off. The exterior is quite ordinary in appearance, and the
interior consists of two rooms and a terrace. Long poles stick up over the roof,
hung with tails of yaks and different-coloured rags—remnants of pious offerings from
the faithful. „ ■
A little lower down the slope stand the ruins of a “ kishlag, by all appearance
not Iod^ abandoned. We arrived at our night’s camp at 11.45 a.m., and prepared
for a lengthened rest, as the Tajik guides told us that the next place where we
could put our horses to grass was some distance off. As the country was quite
unknown to us, we had to rely entirely on the guides, which we could do with the
more confidence, because it was as much their interest as ours to lead us as quickly
as possible to the confluence of the Shakh-Dara and Gund, the rendezvous where
our two reconnoitring expeditions were again to join. The longer they delayed, the
more anxiety they would have on account of the Afghans. During the remainder
of the day I visited the sepulchre, the ruins of the kishlag, and the ravines of
the river Baba-Abdal.
July 25.—We started at 6.45 a.m. on our difficult journey to the first Shugnan
kishlag, Seij, on the right bank of the Shakh-Dara. The difficulty and danger
lay in*the fact that we had to wade four times across the river, which was at rather
high water. The road follows first a terrace, slightly sloping towards the river, and
after passing a meadow goes through a thicket of willow trees, then ascends a slope,
descends to the meadow again, enters a thicket of brushwood, and finally, 2| miles
from Baba-Abdal-Mazar, runs close under high perpendicular rocks, which make
it impossible to follow the right side of the river any further. As the ford was
difficult, and would take some time, we resolved, after crossing, to wait till all the
beasts of butden had arrived, and to see ourselves the most valuable bales and
packages transferred safely across. The waiting would have been very dreary but
for one incident, which, although rather unpleasant, served to pass the time. A
pack-horse, carrying two cases of cartridges and a small barrel of spirits, slipped
from the slope into the river. Through the efforts of the Tajiks, amongst whom
was Azis-Khan, one case of cartridges was eventually saved, but the other sank in
deep water and was lost. As regards the small spirit-barrel, that floated, and ten or
twelve Tajiks immediately rushed into the water at the ford. By spreading them
selves across the river they caught it, as it came down the stream. We regretted
the loss of the cartridges, but the cossacks and soldiers regretted the spirits more,
which had leaked out and become diluted with water. This cask was part of the
very little we had remaining, hence their sorrowful looks. The crossing of the
ba^acm and of the foot-soldiers took two hours and a half, and it was only at
IcTa.m., i.e. after three hours and three-quarters, that we were able to continue
our journey. , ...
An hour after we had to recross the Shakh-Dara, which divides here into two
streams. This made the fording easier, as, although the streams were still deep,
the current was not so strong. ,
We halted once more amongst great thickets, “ tugai, of poplars and
willows. At 12 o’clock we continued our journey. The path now mounts up to