The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume X, No. 6 [‎104v] (61/186)

600 A JOURNEY TO SIWA IN SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER, 1896.
bench running along it I saw a grave assemblage of sheiks, sitting in conclave.
In the centre sat a man in European clothes. Ihis I knew must be Maha Bey.
There was only one thing to do: I went up to him, and, speaking in English,
addressed him by name, and asked if my presence was likely to increase his
difficulties. Luckily for me, my rags and tatters, and my face burnt black, were
not too much for his presence of mind. Hearing me speak English, he rose to
receive me, and I believe his courteous reception saved me from much un
pleasantness. Seeing the Mudir rise, the sheiks all stood up. My sudden
appearance had silenced the mob. All eyes were turned on me. There was no
time to explain, and with any one less quick at seizing the situation than Maha
Bey, the danger I was in might have assumed alarming proportions. Speaking in
the deliberate way in which Arabs exchange greetings, Maha Bey told me in
English that if I would be guided by him, he fancied my arrival might be turned
to some use. “ I must talk with the sheiks for a minute,” he said ; “ my orderly
will take you to my tent, where I will follow you in a few minutes and tell you
what to do.”
Just then I rememhered I had about me a passport. It was on parchment, and
had an undeniably official look about it. With all the dignity I could assume, I
produced the precious document and handed it to Maha Bey as my credentials.
Not a ghost of a smile played on his face as he read it and returned it to me with
a how. He told me afterwards it had struck him then what to say about me. He
soon followed me to his tent, and informed me I had become a colonel in the British
army. The Government, he had told the sheiks, tired of waiting for the payment of
the taxes, now three years overdue, had sent me to see what answer they were giving
to his demands. I had hurried along alone, not wishing, unless absolutely forced
to do so, to alarm Siwa by bringing my armed escort with me. As soon as I knew
who and what I was, we returned to the sheiks, who in the mean time had been
deliberating.
Maha Bey placed me at his right hand. I announced the fall of Dongola—an
important piece of news to them, as the only help they could ever expect, if they
meditated rebellion, must come from there. A change now came over them. From
having absolutely refused to pay anything, they begged for a few days’ respite
before giving a final answer, and, before the assembly broke up, I received an
invitation to attend that evening’s feast in the inner town, given by Sheik Ekman
Haboun, the leader of the Senoussi, or fanatical party. Maha Bey refused to accept
until Ekman Haboun had promised to use his great influence towards having the
taxes gathered. I was invited because Maha Bey took it for granted that I must
be, as his guest, but I fancy my host thought it a bitter pill to have to consent to
my entering the rock-hewn walls of the inner town at his invitation, for I believe
I am the first Christian who has penetrated so far.
As we waited to go in, and afterwards as we sat in his tent, Maha Bey told me
all he knew of the place. The people are in the habit of exchanging their dates for
tea and sugar, and sometimes other small luxuries they can afford. No money ever
passes. It is needless to say they are shamefully cheated, and, never receiving
payment in money, they have none to give to the tax-gatherer. Maha Bey had
interviewed the caravan of merchants just arrived, and informed them he had for
bidden the Siwans to accept anything but money for their dates. As the merchants
had brought everything but money, affairs were at a deadlock, and Maha Bey
intended to stay in Siwa until money was forthcoming.
Mahomet Said leads the Government party. Not being such a fanatic as
Hatoun, his attitude was naturally more friendly towards me. He and his party
have the support of a Mahmoor and two policemen sent from Cairo—individuals