The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume X, No. 6 [‎95v] (43/186)

582
RECENT JOURNEYS IN PERSIA.
noticed that there is but half of the building still standing; this
is not the result of an earthquake, but is the handiwork of a former
governor, w'ho had heard a rumour that treasure existed under the
great dome.
During my stay of a week I met several of the merchants of the
placp, both Mohammedan and Parsi, and I was particularly struck by
their polished manners, which are, I afterwards heard, renowned
throughout Persia.
About the middle of April, after a few days’ rest, I determined to
take a straight line to “ Pasargardse ” via Pariz and Baonat, as thereby I
could fill in several blanks on the map, while, owing to the altitude
being fairly high throughout, I hoped not to suffer trom the heat.
When some five marches to the west of Kerman, I received a most
cordial invitation to visit H.B.H. the Farman Farma, who was the
Governor-General of Kerman and Persian Baluchistan, and, upon accept
ing it, was so hospitably entertained that I accompanied my new friend
to Bahramabad. Among many other experiences, I was introduced to
the sport of shooting gazelle off horseback, which consisted in the riders
spreading across a plain with intervals of 500 or 600 yards between
each, and driving the qmrry off its feeding-ground. In time the gazelle
break back, when the sportsmen gallop to cut them off, and shoot them
with slugs, propelled by a heavy charge of powder. The Farman Farma,
who is a great sportsman, on more than one occasion shot a right and a
left at full gallop. I have also seen hyenas, lynxes, foxes, and hares
bagged in the same way.
When, after being entertained right royally for about a fortnight,
I resumed my journey, I had had an agreeable experience of Persian
life, enjoyed by very few travellers, coupled with a warm invitation to
reiurn during the following winter. Upon entering the unexplored
district of Baonat, we were followed by a band of seven nomads, who
were evidently on the look-out to attack us. However, we took all pre
cautions, and maintained a bold front, and, although both my rifle and
gun were broken, we carried them in a very conspicuous manner. This
band kept parallel to our march for three days, but they fortunately
did not otherwise molest us. It is a remarkable coincidence that Captain
Stotherd, of the Hyderabad Contingent, was set upon less than a month
later, about 30 miles to the south of where I passed, and, although he had
only a single orderly with him, he accounted for four of the brigands,
killing their chief. It is more than probable that he was attacked by
the same gentlemen who took so keen an interest in my movements,
and it is satisfactory to feel that Captain Stoiherd made so good an
impression on them.
Upon arrival at Shiraz, after a visit to the wrorld-renowned ruins at
Persepolis, I was most kindly received by Dr. Scully, who told me that
I had come at an interesting cris s, as there was war to the death