The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume X, No. 6 [‎102v] (57/186)

596
RECENT JOURNEYS IN PERSIA—DISCUSSION.
if you could see the exquisite colours which the barren hills take at sunset, and at
other times, you would agree that Persia has its beautiful side. I remember when
I left Tehran on February 14,1 was particularly struck with this. It was a typical
Persian day, the sky cloudless, the sun bright. To the north stretched a long range
of mountains of dazzling purity, covered with snow from the summit to the foot,
and for away to the east, rose the mighty cone of Demavend. To the south we
saw the great plain stretching into the blue distance, and rising out of it, range
after range of snow-clad hills, the more distant being considerably over 100 miles
awa y» yet, in the exquisitely pure dry Persian air, the farthest range was perfectly
clear. The ■whole was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Now,
that is merely one aspect of Persia, but it is worth dwelling upon. From every
point of view, I wish I could see more English travellers in the country, but they
must be travellers of the right stamp, like Captain Sykes and the charming and
intrepid lady who accompanied him in his wanderings. I hope I may live to see
more Englishmen following their example, and that greater interest in, and know
ledge of, Persia may gradually result.
Colonel C. E. Stewart : It is some sixteen years since I read a paper before this
Society on Persia, where I spent many years, and I am now glad to listen to a paper
by Captain Sykes on that country. Captain Sykes told you that on his way to
Persia he came to me at Adessa and asked me for letters of introduction. I o-ave
him one to a friend of mine, a chief of the Yomut Turkomans whose friendship I
ad gained some years ago. I am sorry my friend did not treat Captain Sykes
better; at all events, I had found him most kind. It surprised this chief very
much, when I was with him, to hear that I possessed a portrait of him. This
portrait had been done by my wife, who had met him on board a Caspian steamer
when he was an officer in the Russian service. Sixteen years ago, a man was
scalped in my presence in this part of the world; but on the present occasion we
had a good dinner with knives and forks. Whatever else the Turkomans have
done, they have advanced much in civilization, which is due to Russian example,
ibis chief, after holding a commission as major in the Russian service, had entered
the Persian service as colonel of cavalry. I must say I found him a most pleasant,
intelligent host, and in every way I enjoyed my time with him. I am sorry he was
not more civil to Captian Sykes. ^
In another part of Persia described by Captain Sykes, I have been as far as
Naiband He describes Naiband as a sort of Paradise, but I suffered a good deal in
crossing the desert to get there. My recollections go back more readily to the Turko
mans than to the desert, because they live in a beautiful green country, where
".ere ° ot {or thc mosquitoes, one could spend a happy time. I remember on two
occasions I could not see the colour of my hands, they were so covered by mosquitoes
t r av«lW B p P ' M r C aim t0 b6 & PerSian traveIler is rath er a slight one. I
trave ed in Persia for a year for about 1500 miles. The region in which I
was chie flYWestern Persia, from Baghdad to Isfahan and in the Bakhtiari
thrn^T a w the Karun re g 10n > fr °m Dupulun to the source of the Karun, and then
o gh what is sometimes called Persian Kurdistan to the Turkish frontier near
rumiah. I should like to ask Captain Sykes if in the desert, between Meshed and
6 T Wlth traCeS ° f andeilt irri ° ati0n ’ canals, ditches or
reservoirs, such as occur in immense numbers in some other parts of Persia now
entirely desert. I should also like to know whether there was any desert vegetation
such plants as assafmtida, which is plentiful on the Upper Elam mountains and
th ^ T g0Urd ’ Which affeCtS deserts - There is more question • Hat
Ahwaz to b" u C ° nCeSSi011 Was S ranted when I was in Persia, I mean tom
Almaz to Burujird, become an accomplished fact?