Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume VIII, No. 5 [‎51r] (104/154)

FROM TEHERAN TOWARDS THE CASPIAN.
503
Save for the existence of a few isolated gardens east of Sultanetabad, the limits of
cultivation were now attained. On the border waste lands flourish the flowered
chickory, and pale yellow and pale pink holtyhocks, through whose wan petals the
sunshine has a pretty effect. There is also a picturesque thistle, with flowers
varying in hue from ultramarine ash to French grey, which take the form of
perfect spheres. In contrast with ripe corn these produce a wonderful effect.
Another greyish-blue plant, very common on the edges of the cornfields, has a
blue foliage, and the younger sprouts of spiky leaves are of a bright metallic colour.
Once beyond the limit of water-supply, all is barren except in spring-time. The
remainder of our two hours ride over the spur which forms the watershed The boundary between adjacent drainage basins. between
the Teheran drainage-area and valley of the Jager had, consequently, but little
interest.
We commenced ascending the right bank of the river through a deep gorge.
The way led over a very rough though well-cared-for mule-track. After four hours
in the saddle we reached the picturesque village of Uchan, situated at the junction
of two branches of the river, at an altitude of 5800 feet. The valley opens out to a
quarter of a mile in width at this place; and the stream, beside which our camp
was pitched, has a stony and rocky bed, over which the waters roll in a deafening
torrent. Behind us was a narrow strip of cultivation, bordered by poplars, walnuts,
and willows, while above were seen the mountains, rising to some 11,000 feet, along
the base of which we had travelled from Lashkerek. The air at Uchan was
perceptibly cooler than that at Gulahek; between the two places there is a shortcut
by a steep and difficult pass known as the “Talhouse.” On June 19 we started,
on mules with a muleteer guide, up the left branch of the Jager river, for general
purposes of exploration, as well as to visit a coal-mine belonging to the Teheran gas
company. The track, well preserved hitherto, practically disappeared beyond
Uchan, but reappeared after two miles at the village of Pachemp. By a bridge in
course of construction and other signs, we became aware that the Shah was
expected to pass shortly in this direction, en route to Lar and Kujur, favourite
camping-grounds of his Majesty. The scene was very beautiful. In this upper
part of the river’s course, the banks lend themselves to cultivation better than
below Uchan, and the peasants, like hill-men in all countries, have taken
advantage of every available square inch of ground. The crops were all fresh
looking ; the wheat was hardly yet in ear; the lucerne, in flower, stood quite
2^ feet high, and men clad in picturesque rags were cutting it. In the
patched garments of these peasants was displayed every shade of blue, from indigo
to ultramarine ash, the shades being somehow all harmonized by wear and tear.
Occasionally a man might be seen wearing a tunic of old crimson plush, which at
threadbare points had a plum-coloured sheen.
At the borders of the tiny fields and beside the roaring torrents were clumps of
luxuriant stuff, with handsome leaves and large white flowers of the umbellifera
class, the size of a saucer. This plant emits a noisome odour when touched. There
were plenty of pretty flowers, and quantities of barberry, briars, and dog-roses in
full bloom. Above the cultivation the valley was bounded by frowning cliffs of
conglomerate and ironstone, in the crevasses of which were patches of frozen snow,
whence rushing streams issued across our path.
At Saigon, a small village, we left the king’s highway, a track 7 feet broad,
but we could trace it for many miles, till it was lost behind a spur surmounted by
a white dome, known as the shrine of Aborek. The track we now had to follow
was only just passable for laden mules. However, after moving for two miles up
the side valley, we arrived at the large village of Lalan. Making for certain black
patches which marked the entrance to the coal workings, visible in the distance,