The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume X, No. 6 [‎89v] (31/186)

570
RECENT JOURNEYS IN PERSIA.
appalling wastes known respectively as the Dasht-i-Kavir and the Dasht-
i-Lut. These two great deserts stretch right across Eastern and Central
Persia, with the result that there is much lees communication between
neighhouring provinces of the Persian Empire than their juxtaposition
would lead one to expect, the wastes of salt-swamp and sand dividing
the districts more completely than any range of mountains, however
difficult its passes might be.
It was at the beginning of 1893 that I obtained permission to rejoin
the “Bays,” at that time stationed in the Punjab, via Persia, and I first
of all travelled to Odessa, where Colonel C. E. Sfewart, Her Majesty’s
consul-general, and a prominent Fellow of this Society, not only gave me
much valuable advice, but also furnished me with letters of introduction.
In consequence, I did not enter Persia by the usual route, but crossed
from Baku to Uzun-Ada, the starting-point of the Transcaspian railway,
and thence steamed down the eastern coast of the Caspian to its south
east corner. At Ashurada, we lay to off the Russian naval station
for a few hours, and soon after reached the end of the “ Murdab,” or
lagoon, where we rowed through myriads of duck and every sort of
aquatic bird, to the rickety pier of Bunder Gez, after traversing which,
we found ourselves nearly up to the knees in mud. There being no
hotel, and tents being out of the question, we were only too glad to
find quarters at the telegraph office, where a room was placed at our
disposal.
After two da 3 s’ delay, we started for Astrabad in wet weather, and
enjoyed a very full experience of what muddy roads can be. The mules
were not so badly off, their loads being high upon their backs; but
the ponies, which carried my servant and myself, must have been very
weary, as we could hardly ever keep our feet out of the mud, so deep
was it. Five hours’ marching through the mire only brought us 7
miles on our way, but, as we were told that the road upon the morrow
was much better, we decided to halt for the night, and found quarters
in the village of Kurd Mahalla, in the house of its headman. Our host
professed himself a profound theological student, and, after introducing
the subject generally by stating that all Europeans worshipped machines,
was anxious to know whether we English worshipped a steamer or a
locomotive.
On the following morning the countiy, which had hitherto been a
melancholy tangle of low thorns and bushes, became quite park-like,
and, as it cleared up, matters looked more cheerful. On passing through
the village, which covers a large area, we saw wheat being thrashed by
means of a see-saw—a girl sitting on one end of the plank, and pulling
herself up and down by a rope suspended above her. It was nearly
sunset when, amid a deafening chorus of jackals, we entered the city of
Astrabad, through a dilapidated gate. Inside not a soul was to be seen,
and we rode on for a considerable distance before we pounced upon a