The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume X, No. 6 [‎93r] (38/186)

RECENT JOURNEYS IN PERSIA.
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benefited Central Asia generally, and Persia in particularity suppressing
the Turkoman terror. These freebooters raided North-East and Central
Persia down to the Dasht-i-Lut, while every man, woman, and child
that was captured would be sold into lifelong slavery, and also endure
religious persecution at the hands of their Sunni masters. Prof. Vambery
has told me that he observed such innumerable cases of cruelty towards
Persian captives that, although he personally was well treated, he regards
the Turkomans with abhorrence. I should have mentioned that both
Bujnurd and Kucban are peopled by Kurds, whom Shah Abbas (the
contemporary of Queen Elizabeth) transported from his north-west to
his northern frontiers, in order to form a buffer between Persia and the
Turkomans. The experiment may be considered to have been a success,
as the Kurds are splendid fighters, and have never been greatly worsted
by the Turkomans.
The town of Bujnurd, which is situated on a fair-sized and well-
watered plain at an elevation of 3800 feet, contains perhaps 20,000
inhabitants, and is increasing at a rapid rate. The bazaars are extensive
and well stocked with Russian and English goods, sugar, hardware, and
crockery coming from Russia, while the calico and muslin bore Man
chester or Bombay labels.
From Bujnurd to Kuchan there was a choice of routes, so I selected
that one which followed up the course of Atrek, as it had not been
travelled over by either Captain Napier or Sir Charles Macgregor, both
of whom had pursued the road which keeps further south. Shirwan,
which we reached on the second day, is under Kuchan, and is nearly as
large as Bujnurd, while the valley of the Atrek, which is here open and
undulating, forms one of the most fertile districts of Persia. At Kuchan
the walls were in the most dilapidated condition, owing to previous
earthquakes, while within a very short time this terrible calamity was
again destined to destroy thousands of lives, and then be repeated, to
annihilate the remnant that had escaped. At the time of my visit there
was a great deal of commercial activity owing to the opening of the
road that has brought Meshed within easy reach of the Transcaspian
railway at Askabad, while my eyes were gladdened by the sight of lines
of waggons, which gave quite a civilized look to the place.
For the remaining 90 miles I hired a waggon, its owner agreeing
to reach Meshed on the third day; and we started off with the pleasant
feeling that this section of the journey was practically an accomplished
fact. Unfortunately, at about 5 miles from Kuchan, one of the horses
had a violent attack of colic; so we had to halt tor the night, as the
poor beast was quite unfit to proceed, and it was not until February 28
that I drew up at the consulate-general at Meshed, where I was warmly
welcomed by Mr. Ney Elias, whose untimely death this Society is now
deploring. In his obituary notice, mention was made of the kindness
he showed to all his juniors, and of this I have received innumerable