Journal of the Society of Arts : Volume LI, No. 2623 [‎717r] (23/32)

February 27, 1903-]
JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS.
3 21
The Woni race are supposed to be the
oldest inhabitants of Yunnan. They are
divided into numerous clans, each wearing
different dresses, with as much variety of
colour and detail as in the tartans of the
Scottish clans. The men, as a rule, wear the
blue cotton jacket and trousers common to the
poorer classes throughout China; but the
women retain the picturesque costume of their
tribe. The Akka of the Shan States belong to
the Woni race, as do also the Putu and the
Mahe. The Mahe lead a wretched existence.
They dwell in tiny little bamboo and mud
hovels on the outskirts of Szemao and Pu Erh,
and act as “ hewers of wood and drawers of
water ” to the Chinese. Every day they go out,
young and old, to the neighbouring hills in
search of firewood, which they bring into the
town toward evening. They sell as much as they
can carry for 75 cash, equivalent to 2 d. in our
money. They never grow rich !
I shall not have time this evening to describe
any more of these hill tribes, but I should like
to mention, in passing, the interesting “ Wa”
Y tribes, wild and tame, of the Meng Lem
district.
My homeward journey led me through the
Shan States and Burma. The healthy portion
of the Yunnan plateau terminates in most
abrupt fashion a few miles beyond Szemao,
and one literally tumbles off the edge, down
into the lower plains and valleys inhabited by
the Shans. Szemao is the last town, and I
may add the last centre of civilisation in this
direction, until British territory is reached;
for south or west beyond Szemao there doesn’t
exist a single inn for the convenience of
travellers. The only way is to camp out, or
sleep in the Shan temples eu route. Except in
bad weather, a tent is preferable, and even the
muleteers either sleep under a piece of stout
cloth held off the ground by sticks, or erect a
shelter of branches, roofed with grass. 1 have
stayed in Shan temples, and slept very com
fortably under the shadow of the great gilt
Buddha, but the awakening was always some
what of a shock, as it is the practice for the
priests and the boy novices to kneel down
every day at dawn, and yell their morning
orisons.
The capital of the Chinese Shan States is
Kenghung, on the Mekong, the residence of
the Saw Bwa, or Hereditary Chieftain, who is
the nominal ruler of the “ Sip Song Panna,
i.e., the “ Twelve States.” From Szemao to
this place it is six days’ journey. Though
the plain of Kenghung lies at an elevation of
2,100 feet above the sea, it is considered by
the Chinese to be a most unhealthy spot.
Through it runs the Mekong, here nearly 200
yards wide, and crossed by a rude ferry.
The houses of the Shans are usually con
structed on piles, their living apartments being
thus well off the ground. They do not copy
the architecture of the Chinese, and the few
bridges that one meets w'ith are of wood or
bamboo, and very frail.
One custom of the Chinese Shans is worth
noting. At the New Year the young girls
provide themselves with balls, like a small
pincushion in shape, filled with cotton seed,
and covered with pieces of coloured cloth.
To one side is attached a long string with
streamers. These are thrown by the girls
from a certain distance to the young men.
By catching or missing them the youths show
their preference, and marriage engagements
are the result. To obtain some photographs I
joined in the game, but I was careful to show
no preference.
From Kenghung to Kengtung it is another
ten days by caravan. Ihere is nothing to be
said in connection with our journey thither,
except that the roads were worse if any
thing than any I have yet seen. Plains give
way to mountains, mountains to valleys, and
valleys to plains ; rarely did we get any level
road. Occasionally we came to a river, which
the animals had to swim, whilst the baggage
was carried across in clumsy boats.
Twelve days out from Szemao we crossed
the Burma frontier, marked by a wooden post
and a heap of stones. As we neared Kengtung
we found evidence of British influence in the
roads; they were wider and better kept than
those we had been traversing. The country
around produces cotton, tea, and a little
opium.
Four days later, after negotiating the usual
mountain barrier, we descended into the fine
plain of Kengtung. This place is one of the
outposts of our Empire. It is the residence of
a political officer, who, whilst subordinate to
the Superintendent of the Southern Shan
States, is in charge of the Kengtung State,
extending from the Chinese frontier on the
north, to Siam on the south. Kengtung is
garrisoned by Indian troops, and possesses a
post and telegraph office.
Big forests of teak exist in Kengtung terri
tory, near the Siamese frontier, and are worked
by the Sawbwa under British supervision.
The Bazaar at Kengtung is one of the sights
of British Burma. On market day it is thronged
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