"عبر بلاد فارس على سرج ركوب جانبي" [‎٢‎٦‎٥] (٣٦٠/٣٠٦)

UP THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSREH 265
Christians of the ancient and well-nigh extinct Nestorian
Church, and fine, well-built fellows. Genial Captain Adey
of the Malamir^ however, told us that he never employed
them in steering, as they had no pluck and nerve should
any difficulty arise, the Mohammedan Arabs being far
more dependable in an emergency. As we got nearer
Busreh, houses became more frequent, and we passed well-
built, airy residences belonging to the different European
firms engaged in the date trade here; but alas, the whole
place was flooded, as, owing to the melting of the snows
in the spring, the river had risen some five feet. All the
date-groves were standing in water about a foot deep, the
bunches of fruit looking withered, and making it a serious
question as to whether the crop for the year might not be
a failure. It is an Arab saying that the palm ought to
have its roots in water and its head in the fire; but on this
occasion it was considered that the water had outstepped
its due bounds, and was no longer a beneficent agent.
Every garden was a swamp, the flowers all dead, and the
trees dying; while the fruit and vegetables were practically
destroyed, and, what was worse, whole families of Arabs
had been washed out of their palm-leaf matting houses and
were camping on the few dry spots to be found, having in
many cases to bewail the loss of cows, sheep, and poultry,
the bodies of which could be seen cast up on the banks of
the great river.
The British Consulate was one of the best buildings in
the place, and Captain Whyte, an old Indian friend of my
brother's, came out to us in his bellum^ and carried us off
to enjoy a generous hospitality, to which, later on, we were
to owe more than we could ever repay.
Busreh has been called the ' Venice of the East,' and the