"عبر بلاد فارس على سرج ركوب جانبي" [‎٢‎٦‎٦] (٣٦٠/٣٠٧)

THROUGH PERSIA ON A SIDE-SADDLE
title is not a misnomer, as the broad Shat-el-Arab might
pass as a much-magnified Grand Canal, and branches off on
either side into dozens of fairy creeks stretching far inland
and fringed with palms, willows, broad-leaved bananas, and
shady vines. To complete the resemblance, the river is
always alive with bellums not so unlike gondolas in appear
ance, painted white picked out with blue or green, and
poled along when near the shore by their Arab crews. The
passengers sit on cushions at the bottom of the boat, and
with an awning to keep off the glare of the sun the M/um
is as much conducive to rfv/ce far niente as the gondola
itself. All luggage, merchandise, and cargo are carried out
in these boats to the British India steamers or to Lynch's
vessels running between Busreh and Bagdad, and I have
even seen horses conveyed in them from one bank of the
stream to the other.
The only way to get about from house to house is by
means of these native boats, as the creeks branching off
from the main river separate many of the houses from one
another, and during this time of flood the bellum was
needed more than usual, although, as is the case in Venice,
it is possible to reach most places by dry land, if one
knows the way.
The city of Balsora, or Busreh,- was founded by the
Khalif Omar, arid was famous as a great port before
the rise of its rival, Bagdad, under the dynasty of the
Abbasides.
It was a celebrated seat of learning in the Middle Ages,
while it was from Balsora that Sindbad commenced his
voyages in some picturesquely p'ainted dhow or mehalah,
that has hardly altered since his days, and it is the opinion
of many savants that the romance of which the intrepid