"عبر بلاد فارس على سرج ركوب جانبي" [‎٣‎٠‎٢] (٣٦٠/٣٤٥)

302 THROUGH PERSIA ON A SIDES ADDLE
frequent holes, one is struck by the number of dead dogs,
which no one takes the trouble to remove. As « dog does
not eat dog," the pariah scavengers never touch their
deceased relatives, although a dead mule or horse will at
once attract a hungry crowd round it.
By the way, it is impossible for a lady to ride or walk
anywhere alone and be secure from hustling and insult;
and the Persians have a pleasing habit of trying to ride
Feringhees down, or at all events to push past them rudely.
Horses stand loose all about the streets, their riders
paying calls, and leaving their steeds unfastened at the
doors. Occasionally, however, a runaway comes galloping
along, making straight for its stable, threading its way
cleverly among the incessant caravans of mules and
donkeys laden with brushwood, charcoal, and kah, and not
causing the least commotion.
Some horses appeared to have a great dislike to the
harmless donkeys, and one of our acquaintances had a
steed which astonished me by charging at the patient asses
and literally rolling them over, loads and all. On muddy
days the flowing tails of all the horses are tied up in
bunches to keep them out of the mire, giving the animals
a curious appearance.
The Shah s race-horses are exercised on a course round
the walls of the Aspdawani (race-horse garden). During
January they were taken at a slow walk every morning,
muffled up to the ears and ridden by small boys singing
weird songs, who work their charges up to a frantic
gallop during the afternoon. The races take place at
Notuz (about March 22nd), and occasion much excitement.
The Persians, having no idea of fair play, press the
Europeans to enter for the prize for which the latter