"بلاد فارس والشأن الفارسي من إعداد السيد المحترم جورج ناثانييل كورزون، عضو البرلمان." [‎١‎٧‎٥] (٧١٤/٢١٠)

MESHED
175
on the north-west. From Kelat a branch line runs to Dere^ez.
There is further a single wire from Meshed to the frontier outpost
Telegraphs oi Sarakhs ' on the Russian border; but this is usually
broken or interrupted, and Sarakhs is, as a rule, cut off
from communication with the capital. This line has been linked
in the present year (1891) with Russian Sarakhs, on the other side
of the Tejend, where there is a military outpost of Russia; the
point of junction being in the bed of the Tejend. This brings
Meshed into telegraphic connection with Ashkabad and Merv, and
further exemplifies the Russian ascendency. There is, at present
no telegraphic connection between Meshed and the south; but a
wire has been talked of from the capital to Birjand. The main
line between Meshed and Teheran, 570 miles in length, consists
of a single wire, via Nishapur, Sebzewar, and Shahrud. Though
it belongs to the Persian Government, it is subsidised and main
tained for them by the Indo- European Telegraph Department, who
keep an inspector at Shahrud and two signallers at Teheran and
Meshed. This staff is inadequate for the maintenance and service
of the line, and it is out of order on several days in each month.
The Persians were apt at first to invest the telegraph offices with
the sanctity of a hast, and cases have occurred at Meshed and else
where where the premises have been so claimed by fugitives from
pursuit or persecution—the underlying idea being that the wire
ran directly from the Shah's palace at Teheran, and that they
could thus communicate at once with head-quarters.
In conclusion, I may say that the fanatical hostility to Europeans
and Christians for which Meshed was always said to be distinguished
Attitude a PP ear s to have completely disappeared. Precautions, it
towards is true, are still observed by the advice of the authorities ;
foreigners an( ^ wag one 0 £ i nconven i enceg 0 f life and residence
there that one had to pass through the town on horseback pre
ceded and followed by an escort. This prevents the desultory stroll
and ' poking of the nose in every corner' which the European
traveller loves, but which is so foreign to the Oriental's notion of
dignity and self-respect. During my residence of eight days in
Meshed I always moved about on horseback ; but I believe that
there was nothing in reality to have prevented me from wandering
whither I would on foot, and in a few years' time a European will
doubtless be as familiar a spectacle there and will excite as little
comment as in the streets of Bokhara or in the bazaars of Isfahan.