"مذكرات لرحلة عبر كردستان في شتاء ١٨٨١-١٨٨٢." [و‎‎١‎٨] (٥٦/٣٥)

a:
31
About 5 miles out another road branches off more to south-east, but
was said to be difficult from snow. From Ilaji Ali Khan two other roads to
Sakuz exist via Borhan, used in summer, said to be three farsakhs shorter, and
the Ba Sunga road. Two prominent peaks stand on south of village Almalas
and Sultan Said A\ r akai. A wedding being on, was left to myself, all avail
able population dancing. Women unveiled, as general amongst Kurds, arm
and arm with men, the whole in a circle going round and round a few musicians
with drums and reed flutes, who kept up a monotonous but tolerably correct
tootling, certainly very many degrees above Hindoo melodies.
8tk March 1882.
6-45 a.m . to 5 p.m.
From Haji An Khan (5,(500 feet) to Bokan (4,450 feet).
General Direction—south-east, 34 miles.
Bright, gay colors worn, picturesque scene. Lots of dogs. There had been
some fighting here with some of the Sheikh's Kurds who tried to loot, and eight
or nine villagers had been killed. An Armenian merchant held this village
as his compatriot did of many in districts whose Agas, ruined by events of
last year in particular, were glad to flbave.
Por three miles follow bank of stream to village Sigar, 5,200 feet, ford it
and over undulating cultivated ground; Kilai-el-llasul Salif, about 6 miles;
3 miles left, and decided fall into Miandab valley, Maragha hill, Sahend, &c.,
clearly visible; undulating, few villages to 14 miles. Sheep, larks singing, at 15
miles into plain and cross two streams to Ashagu, skirt under rocky ridge at Imiles,
striking left bank of Tatava. Hills on right bank across valley 4 miles;
at 25 miles Unchar, big village, with Fort Mahommad Aga. At 30 miles large
villages, where for only time during travels was refused lodgings, owing, I
fancy, to my Persian companion; descend cultivated ground, grove and ford to
west of village Ustapa, half mile down on right bank; 33 miles cross ford,
80 yards; girth deep, and after water-course and mill. Bokan at 34 miles, with
old fort on knoll above town. Hospitably received by Munshi of Saf-uddin-Khan
in a very small house, owner just gone to Souj Boulak. Small covered bazar
here, and building going on, 400 houses (?); most marvellous spring, lukewarm,
in court of mosque, from which large stream flows through town; full of fish.
9 th March 1882.
6-30 a.m . to 2-25 p.m.
From B okan (4,450 feet) to S akuz (5,075 feet).
General Direction—south, 24 miles.
Pass few gardens, hills close left for 1^ miles, open to 5 miles, low ridge
Lots of villages in sight up Valley Tatawa, and high snow-chain on west 7
miles. Imam Sultan Altimas up hill west, ascend 5,000 feet, some ups and
downs, crossing a couple of streams tributary of Tatawa, and at latter
village of Sarsloe, boundary of Sakuz and Mikri Kurd, and ascend a gently
rising snow field; marching again heavy; at 15 miles, crossing saddle 5,500
feet, descend to stream which skirt and cross at 19 miles. Several villages
in sight, and valley whence inner stream tolerably open. Lots of sheep about.
Path now ascends and winds round spurs of hill on right (west) about 23 miles,
descending to Sakuz, which is situated at end of
Sakuz, 36° 14/ N., 46° 21' E. a i on g low spur overhanging left bank Sakuz river,
Altitude. o,0/o tect. tributary of Jugathu. Was met by a regular
Peshwai, Chief's brother, and about 20 mounted men. Ruinous little town
of 1,000 houses with an equally dilapidated house of the Khan, and some
feeble attempts at covering in the roofs of bazar. Jews very rich here. Was
installed in the Khan's best room. He is a tall, strikingly handsome man of
about 30, Mesjid Khan by name,* fair complexion, clean shaved, as is indeed
^ , r , , TT , customary w r ith all Kurds, and most Turks and
* Mohammad Hassan Khan and 'xi i -ui i x i, i
Abduiia Khan being two of his Persian soldiers, with a long blacK moustache, and
nearest relatives. has more the appearance and bearing of a smart
cavalry officer than of the chief of one of the wildest tribes of the country.
He is nominally Persian Governor of district, but told me is terribly spied
upon and watched. I formed a greater friendship for him than for any other
native met with in my travels.