'Notes of a journey through Kurdistan in the winter of 1881-82.' [‎17r] (33/56)

29
during 20 years, and would be kept at it all his life. He got no remission of
taxes, and had to pay 3 tomans 10,000 Persian dinars, or a gold coin of that value. per half-year for his hut. Showed me his musket
and accoutrements, which they keep at home with them,—old muzzle-loading
smooth-bore musket, dirty antiquated belts and pouch.
%Sth February 1882.
G-30 a.m . to 6-15 p.m.
From Jairan (4,275 feet) to Sheik Ahmed (4,200 feet).
General Direction—south by south-east, 35 miles.
This is about southern limits of the Urmia gardens. Lake is 2 miles
west, and hills about as far on east of village. After a few gardens and open
ground, ford small tepid stream and cross low spurs at 2 miles. Thence
descend and skirt along shores of lake, to which slopes tlescend. An
upper track exists, avoiding Jairan, but going round at 4 miles. Ground
now uncultivated, save patches at villages llashakan, Shashagal, &c. Eleven
miles, shore of lake tends eastward, and a fortified village, Tergan, stands on rocky
scarp over water; ascend easy slope for mile, then through gardens of Dizza to
14 miles, then again skirt low slopes and shore of lake; crossing larger spurs at
18, and deep ravine 21 miles, rather likely spots for robbers; 25 miles shore of lake
again recedes east. Very strong smell from the kind of seaweed on shore, rather
disagreeable; 27 miles, crest of spur, 4,470 feet, aneroid reading, easy ascent, and
see valley Sulduz at feet. Large part of it now flooded. The Kalashin Pass
visible to west at head. Skirt along spurs and cross flat ploughed plain to
another low spur and hollow road, (3 feet); and descend to village of Sheikh
Ahmed, 50 or 60 flat mud huts; valley about 5 miles wide, and as much
pastoral as agricultural. Large flocks, sheep, yahoos, &c. Terribly savage
dogs, who live on roofs, even throughout snow, and troop down in a pack
on any stranger. Kobbery quite impossible, and it is dangerous for any
stranger on foot to approach at night, unless with villager. Dogs all have
names, and are said to recognise instantly any one of inhabitants' voices. Had
to draw my sword to keep one off, although mounted. Some of neighbouring
villages belong to Mr. Gelately, whose brother was there, of which unfortu
nately I was ignorant. Put up by shepherd. Here, as common in these parts,
there is a fire-place sunken 3 feet or so in floor, and kept always full of embers.
The ladies of house could not for long bear themselves away from the attraction
of sticking their legs down this, notwithstanding our presence. Bitterly cold
evening. Inhabitants here Turks, and seem to have suffered little from the
Kurds, probably joined them.
1st March 1882.
6-15 a.m . to 5-30 p.m.
From Sheikh Ahmed (4,200 feet) to Souj Botjlak (4,300 feet).
General Direction—south-east, 33 miles.,
Over marshy but tolerably cultivated ground, 4 miles, through partly ruined
village Mahomed Shiah on left bank of Gadr Chai or Sulduz Chai, marsh on
right bank, foot of hills south boundary of valley 3 miles off, several villages
Found on enquiry that the Kak. alon g slopes. Bear ^ more to east, passing two or
shin Pass was still so blocked that I three villages, Dungia, Duna, &c., at end of low
would not probably be able to make rocky spur which iuts out into plain. Lar^e herds
the Assyrian inscription. i i . i j -n ..
and good many ponies about. Irom enquiries a
fair yaboo was procurable for lis. 40. Cross some water-cuts and through
reeds to about 11 miles to stone bridge, three arches, to which road makes a
curious loop. River seemed deep and unfordable, 30 yards wide. Reason of its
being off direct line was, I believe, to avail themselves of a block of rock at one
side for foundation. Villages of Saradash and Mania on right bank near, and
steepish rocky hill overhanging, along base of which road skirts. One very black
and oily piece of soil showed here through snow. Circle round foot of hill and
cross spur, 4,270 feet, open and undulating, grassy marshes to left (east) close to
road, and two or three villages a mile or two off track. Hills become more
detached and smaller; 17 miles easy ascent round spur to your right (west),
and down gentle grass descent and over some low undulations, snow melting
and ground heavy. About 22 got large villages of Interkash, &c., to left; passed
on other side on way from Souj Boulak to Miandab in January, and 25 miles