'Notes of a journey through Kurdistan in the winter of 1881-82.' [‎17v] (34/56)

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over spur, descend about 100 feet, and at 2G miles strike banks of Souj Boulak
river, opposite Usukund; close to this is end of spur, across which the Souj
Boulak-Miandah road crosses about half mile off. Being misdirected we forded
river here and made for this road and line of telegraph, being bothered on right
bank by a deep water-cut which mules crossed with difficulty. Proper road
runs for some way up left bank and crosses nearer town. Sent on, and was
met by Mr. Gelately's cousin and put up by him. Eound that telegrams
concerning me had been sent down from Tabriz.
Several storks turned up to-day, a sign, according to the inhabitants, of
Souj Boulak, 45° 45' E., 36° 45' beginning of spring. Called on the Governor-
N. Altitude 4 ,300 feet. General, Hussan Ali Khan, whose full titles are
Amir-u-turam, Mlnistre des Travaux Publics, Gouverneur-General cle Souj
Boulak, Sainkaleh et de Gerus, Commandant-General de Varmie JPersane
a Souj Boulak. He is native of Gerus, and came here with army
on retreat of the Sheikh last year. Being ordered by the Shah to make
Wrote to Suleiman Aga excusing ^mp^e of particularly Suleiman Khan, one of
my not visiting his village for shikar Sheikh Abdullah s adherents, he enticed him to Souj
on account of snow rendering the Boulak under an oath on the Koran that he had
latter impossible. Heard that the jv • j . i» p , • , n i i i i i
Ganashin Pass was so thoroughly nothing to tear trom him up to the day he descended
closed by fall of snow just after I into his grave. In tent prepared for his reception
foTtod"WWa grave had been dug, covered by carpet, and on
that drifts lay over top branches of the Khan s sinking into this he was shot. An
hammad Baiai Ziarat siieikh Ma * instance of Persian justice occurred day after my
arrival. Four robbers caught had a nose, hand, and
ear respectively cut off, whilst the leader was flogged to death. This justice is
tolerably efficacious, and the security of the roads on the Persian side of frontier
contrasts strangely with the anarchy of the Turkish provinces. Chances of
detection and capture are so few that an extra stringent penalty must be
exacted to make justice feared. Called daily and had long chats with the Gover
nor, some medicines I gave him being much appreciated. He also returned my
visit, an unusual circumstance. Heard our intimacy caused much conversa
tion in bazar, and it was said that some recent changes of sentries, and issue of
cartridges and breach-loading rifles to some of his followers were dictated by
my advice. Received visits from Jewish Rabbi, w T ho gave me petition for Sir
Moses Montefiore and from several merchants, including Russian Tapirhashi
Agent, which I returned; also made sketch of town for the Governor which ho
said he was going to send to the Shah. Spring apparently set in, mild snow
disappearing, and blue crocuses sprouting everywhere.
6th March IS82.
7-15 a.m . to 1-30 p.m.
From Souj Boulak to Haji Ali Khan.
General Direction—east, 13 miles.
Some rock-carvings are said to exist on face of precipice of isolated hill to
north-east of Juberkash.
Accompanied by large cavalcade of Armenians, and had a pic-nic breakfast
• Sultan Kai Kawas. 0 " ^ Als ? ^ a Persian,* who ranked as captain
ot cavalry, with two or three followers, sent by the
Governor-General to see me to Sakuz. He had a very small blue cloth uniform
that rather threw my kit into shade. Immediately outside town enter narrow
valley, few traces cultivation, three miles ascent, wind upwards hill about six
miles ; cross ridge 6,000 feet, descend to 5,450 feet next mile, and wind along
high-lying, fairly open valleys, with slopes easy, and at 13 miles reach village Hafi
Ali Khan, 100 houses. Deep snow was terribly fatiguing on this march;
horses kept continually sinking till your stirrups touched snow, and as it was
partially beaten down, and crust occasionally bore, there was terrible plun<nm»-.
Meeting convoy yaboos, who hustled us off beaten path, one of Governors
men instantly felled one of muleteers with butt of rifle, cutting his head badly.
The poor devil, who did not dare to murmur, refused to take a few krans I
offered him, from pride apparently. The mules I got at Urmia for 12 krans
each to Souj Boulak, refused to come further, so hired four there at 40 krans
each to Sulimania. Eventually they engaged on and accompanied me to
Baghdad.