'Telegraph and travel. A narrative of the formation and development of telegraphic communication between England and India, under the orders of Her Majesty's Government, with incidental notices of the countries traversed by the lines.' [‎417] (456/782)

shallower mer close Ly the same place, and the Kurn Chai at
some distance fuither. Alight at Dolankir, where there are huts
and a running stream, and breakfast. Xear Kurn Chai is a hard,
sandy plain, cracked in several places, and covered with short,
dry, spare grass. Telegraph line carried along in excellent
direction, but needs strengthening at the rivers with masonry
pillars.
"May 27.—March to Taza Khurmati, the 'fresh date,' in
opposition to Tuz Khurmati, the 'salt' or probably 'dry date :'
( hours, oi 21; miles. Cross the Tank Kuni Chai, a broad river
bed, of which the right bank is about 60 feet high. At two
hours is Lasan, a small ruined village with shrine of Imam
Hasan, frequented by pilgrims. Taza Khurmati reached through
grain-fields and over an undulating country. May contain 200
houses. Put into roomy quarters, but full of flies.
May is. March to Kerkuk: hours, or 14 miles. Grain-
tields and undulating country nearly the whole way. Pass
Tissin to the left. Kerkuk looms out in the distance like the
background of an oriental melodrama. It is just the sort of
scene that would foreshadow the coming of a ferocious Pasha An Ottoman title used after the names of certain provincial governors, high-ranking officials and military commanders. ,
lurks, Kurds, and so forth, men and women with scimitars,
agitated choruses, and other conventional accompaniments. Pro
ceeded to telegraph office, a tolerably extensive building, and
fividently cared for. Met by the Mudir, or Superintendent,
S. Ley, who received us politely in a cool, clear, airy upstairs
room; and looked a friendly and comfortable Turk, without
prejudices or bigotry sufficiently marked to stand in the way
of his advancement at home or abroad. The face is decidedly
handsome, and lights up continually with a good-humoured
smile. T wo assistant Mudirs joined our party. One of these was
a young exquisite in a uniform composed of the telegraph dark
doth with pale blue facings, gold embroidery, and an ornament
resembling a flash of forked lightning; red bagging trousers, and
h \o pairs of shoes, into the inner of which passed his straps.
His really delicate-looking hands were set off by an evidently
pet turquoise on a pet finger. Had been in hopes we should
ia\e remained where we were, but our guide had provided for
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