'Telegraph and travel. A narrative of the formation and development of telegraphic communication between England and India, under the orders of Her Majesty's Government, with incidental notices of the countries traversed by the lines.' [‎418] (457/782)

418
TELEGRAPH AND TRAVEL.
[chap.
us otherwise. We were taken to a konak (house), a receptacle
of fleas and flies, which overlooked a farmyard of considerable
filth. However, Ali Chaosh had done his best, and as Ali
Chaosh's father was the owner of our quarters, what was to be
said ? Ilestless night, as might have been expected.
" May 29.—Halt to-day. They say there are 2,500 houses in
Kerkuk, or perhaps 10,000 inhabitants, including a tenth of the
number in the citadel. My servant informs me there are two
Chaldsean churches, or places of worship here. Talk with
the Bey and others at telegraph office. Pasha An Ottoman title used after the names of certain provincial governors, high-ranking officials and military commanders. clearly not
popular. Among other stories told of him, one is to the effect
that he puts hundreds of prisoners into the lower rooms of the
telegraph building, thus converting it into a jail. This public
mode of living is distressing. To-day, Sunday, nothing but
visits, even among the flies and fleas of my own apartment.
There is the Telegraph Mudir, a gallant Army-Major, and
an assistant-superintendent. How many chibouks are got
through I know not. Eventually we adjourn to a garden full
of fruit and other good things, and feast on apricots and raki!
One of my new acquaintances is a Frenchified Turk, and has
acquired much in Paris, besides the language, which he mistakes
for progress and civilization. One glass of raki in the morning,
and four in the evening; this is his quantum ; and he is sure it
is necessary for his health. ' J'ai ma femme,' he says, ' ma
petite fille de six mois, et mon negre, voila tout.' Young Turkey
is represented by many such as this.
" May 30.—An embargo was laid on our mules yesterday.
They were seized by order of the Pasha An Ottoman title used after the names of certain provincial governors, high-ranking officials and military commanders. to be pressed into
Government service, and, accompanied by two companies of
infantry, ordered off to Sulimania, in Kurdistan. But we
managed to get the mistake rectified. Marched this morning
to Yarimja, 5 hours, or 16 miles; and passed a very hot day
in a Kurdish tent afterwards. Country exhibits little cultiva
tion, and that in the low ground generally undulating and stony,
with more or less steep hills. Bash Chaosh says that Kurds
used to make a mark of the porcelain insulators to fire at; but
they now, as well as the Arabs, are beginning to be accustomed