The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume XVI, No. 6 [‎371v] (95/232)

b68 ON THE AFGHAN FKONTIER: A RECONNAISSANCE IN SHUGNAN.
without any inscriptions. We then descended into the valley of the Kara-su river
(an affluent ot the Murgh-ab). In this river there is a kind of “ eyot ” covered with
parched and sickly-looking willows, and it is strange how our eyes would affection
ately cling to this ansemic oasis, which represents the sole timber growth in the
Pamir highland from Fergana and the Alai to the Koi-tezek pass on the Shugnan
frontier, about 240 miles.
I he river now washes its way through a thick bed of conglomerate, 45 to 50
feet deep.
After crossing over to the left bank of the stream, we followed the road which
brought us almost straight to the “ rabat ” (Persian inn) at the mouth of the river
Boz-Jilga. Here we stopped for the night. More by luck than by foresight, we
resisted the temptation, weary as we were, of camping in the open—for the rabat,
being merely a quadrangular room with a clay dome, could not, of course, accom
modate us all—and erected two of our tents outside. It was fortunate we did so,
for a stiff shower fell during the night.
As a rule, the rainfall is very slight on the Pamir, and rainy days do not average
more than 8—10 per annum.
We set out at daybreak next morning and crossed the summit of the Naiza-tash.
This latter slopes so gently, that a carriage could easily traverse it. The road now
courses between low mountains, with the usual depressing and spiritless “ Pamir ”
perspective, which, however, opens out when we enter the Alichur valley. Here
the eye can take a wider sweep, and embraces the whole of the valley, lying there
lf ^ ,f be P^ lm of one,s hand > with the Chatyr-tash (the tent-stone) riling in
e mit e, am looking really like a huge tent in the distance. A strong wind is
near y awa^s blowing along the Alichur valley, and in our case proved very
isagreeable, as we had already marched 29 miles, and were feeling tired. We
camped shortly afterwards for the night about 2 miles below the Chatyr-tash on a
ra er marshy plain, covered with fairly good grass. Here we consulted as to our
plans lor the morrow.
As it was imperative that we should reach Shugnan in time to forestall the
designs of the Afghan raiders, we decided to push on 18 miles next day, as quickly
as possible and without halting. J
Although the Alichur valley is noted for its rich grazing lands, the nomadic
nbes have not yet sufficiently got over their natural fear of the Afghans to make
fhebLdm* 0 f T h ; S warlike ’ thou S h treacherous race, may be justly termed
tw b d ti 0f i CeD r u and ’ 80 long as they exist ’ wil1 the y be a constant
1 oqoth he t S1 m-\ 0f , b0th E “ gli8h aad Russians - During the summer of 1891 and
lb. _ they established a small military post on the eastern borders of the Yashil-
kul near Sume-tasb, whence they raided and blackmailed Russian subjects on the
s It cost the Russians a very sanguinary encounter before they could be
ousted from their ill-famed stronghold. J
July 21. We started at 7.15 a.m., after leaving three cossacks (as we did also
at the Previous halting-places) to keep up our line of communications. We aaain
followed the road, which from this point skirts the left bank of the Alichur
river, winding up and down, in and out, at the base of the mountains. The lower
over to “hundr ^ “ Wy S00d preBer '' a ‘ io "' fto “e h
A disagreeable head wind was now blowing, and we were all glad when at
our o clock, we saw in the distance the lately-built rabat near the Mukur-Shegembet
nver and ravine. It stands on a high bank, and can be clearly seen a goS way