The Geographical Journal (Journal of the Royal Geographical Society): Volume XVI, No. 6 [‎371r] (94/232)

ON THE AFGHA.N FRONTIER: A RECONNAISSANCE IN SHUGNAN. 667
of the great probability that this hitherto neglected region may ultimately develop,
by the march of political events, into a place of strategical importance, as the
narrow belt of land separating two great powers—Russia and England—in Asia, it
is to be hoped that the following short descriptive notes may induce some enter
prising Englishman to undertake the task of exploration in a thorough and
scientific spirit. This is the only excuse for offering these notes here. A military
officer whether English or Russian, on such a reconnoitring expedition has scarcely
the means, if he had the will, to effect an exploration in the proper geographical
meaning of the term. To get a written account at all, however sparse in detail it
may be, from an eye-witness is a step in the right direction.
The first writer The lowest of the four classes into which East India Company civil servants were divided. A Writer’s duties originally consisted mostly of copying documents and book-keeping. to mention Shugnan is the Chinese Buddhist monk Hwen-
Thsang (in the seventh century) ; but every description, commencing with that of
the Chinese traveller and ending with those of the English travellers Wood (1836),
Forsyth Trotter (1873) (in the nineteenth century), is largely made up from
hearsay accounts. The first European who actually visited Shugnan in propria
persona was the Russian Dr. Regel (1882-3). He was followed, a little later in
1883 by the mining engineer Ivanov. Neither traveller has published anything
important on the country. In 1894, Lieut.-Colonel A. Serebrennikov, in the recon
noitring expedition to which reference has been made above, succeeded in riding
along the entire courses of the rivers Shakh-Dara, Gund and Kharokh, and also
along a portion of the Panj.* ,
As to the result of his travels we may now let him speak for himselt.
A. M.
PamirsJcy Post, Sunday, July 9, 1892,-There is a break in the monotonous
run of garrison life at last! General Yonov has arrived with his staff, and after
feastings, congratulations, etc., we settle down in earnest to discuss our proposed
reconnaissance into Shugnan. There is no time to be lost, as we learn that the
Afghans are expected almost daily to cross the river, and we must forestall them.
July 19.—Our two parties, each consisting of three officers, twelve infantry,
twenty cossacks, and some guides, set out at eight o’clock this morning in a drizzling
mist. We forded the river Murgh-ab after parting from and receiving the good
wishes of all our brother-officers remaining behind, and also—last but not least—
those of the only lady on the Pamirs, Madame S. G. Skerskaya, who had, in spite
of the weather, made one of our honorary escort up to this point. The river is
rather hi-h at this season, and the waters rose to our horses’ saddle-cloths even at
the ford, but in autumn and winter, when its affluents are not fed by the melting
of the glaciers, fording at any point is very easy.
How exceedingly monotonous and dreary the scenery on this vast Pamir plateau
is t The low mountains, with vague outlines, which bound the broad river valleys,
are quite bare and lifeless. In this respect how different from the awesome
mightiness of some of the giants in the Alai range! But the fact which should
astonish us is the tremendous height above sea-level, at which we are slanding in
these valleys. This, of course, cannot be seen, but only felt—fever, violent hea
aches, nose-bleeding, etc., are frequent symptoms here, and tell their own tale as
regards altitude. The natives call these symptoms » tutek.
After passing the burial vaults of Shadjan, on the right side of the river, we
turned sharply to the left, ascending a small plateau whereon are more graves, but
* The parts of Shugnan within the valley of the Panj have lately been visited by
the two Danish Expeditions under Lieut. Olufsen. On the second of these a recon
naissance east of the river was also made.