"يوميّات رحلة من بلاد فارس إلى الهند عبر هراة وقندهار. وأيضًا تقرير رحلة إلى العاصمة الوهابية، الرياض في وسط الجزيرة العربية" [و‎‎٢‎٥] (٢٦٨/٤٩)

35
two great roads to Herat, of Turbut Sheik to the eastward, and
of Turbut Hyderee to the westward. We commenced ascending
at once; and from the first eminence I could see the trees and
fort of Robat Sufeed, in a valley to our right. In front were
a’ series of ever heightening ranges of hills, with intervening
dips of alluvial ground, covered with low scrub-wood. Our
highest point was distant some 2| fursacks from the forking of
the roads, and from this height there is a fine cantering slope
of some four miles to the base of an abrupt wall-like range,
upon whose hither skirt is nestled the village of Nassar,
which being interpreted from old Persian into English,
means the coldest of cold places. Even thus early in the
autumn the air here is very cold. We reached at noon and
and I was still comfortable in my great-coat. The village is
wretchedly poor; its fort walls are in ruins, and its people
almost moneyless, and very dirty, though fresh complexioned.
As to the site of the village it is picturesquely perched at the
mouth of a rugged pass ; with a fresh stream of water, and some
trees and garden grounds brightening the hollows. I am installed
in a room with two open spaces called windows; and with any
number of sooty recesses in its mud built walls. As usual, during
the evening a large cat comes down the chimney, stares at me in
amazement, receives one of my slippers in full flight, and disap
pears. Sometimes the cat is white, to-day he Avas a large tabby.
Sometimes he takes a drop leap through the round air-hole
in the mud roof. Sometimes, as to-day, he comes down the fire
place. But come whei’e he will and go where I may, there is
always a hungry cat ready to appear directly the kabab comes
on the carpet.
This morning at Nassar one of the guards amused himself
by galloping standing on his saddle and pirouetting round me at
full speed, making feint of firing on me from right, left, and rear.
These • fellows are certainly natural horsemen. During our
stage we crossed many cafilas * en route to Meshed. They
* These were small caravans carrying produce from the country to Meshea
town.